The drive from the Priory, Châteauneuf du-Pape brings you from dusty and dingy (Gratallops) drab and industrial (northern outskirts of Barcelona) sunlit and idyllic (France Mediterranean coast). Four hours, I was sailing along the e15 past Nîmes, under a beautiful Provençal sun. Right of me was the pastel blue Mediterranean Sea; to my left, manic French driver, rapidly to me over with a fine disregard of Gallic although I 90 miles per hour Act.
Châteauneuf du-Pape shares with the Priory three important things: the Sun, the Mediterranean and Grenache. The Priory is a hardscrabble, impoverished region, despite the success of its wines; on the other hand the southern Rhone Valley is home to Châteauneuf, such as an extension of the Provence, all sparkling light, postcard villages and rolling hills. The place is charming, not hard. When local farmers from the Priory were one here to wake up, would he think that he had come into the sky. At least until he recognized everyone spoke French.
I spent the night in a bed and breakfast; the next morning, I drove to Chateau de Beaucastel, one of the largest producers of Châteauneuf du-Pape. Marc Perrin, a lanky 41-year-old whose Familie Beaucastel has, looked amazingly relaxed - surprisingly, it was middle of the harvest and his wife was planning a baby three weeks. "I have not much sleep," he admitted.
Châteauneuf du Pape tasting at l ' Oustalet. Photo © Martin Morrell.Beaucastel, in contrast to Palacios, is a shady restaurant with a great wine list in the nearby town of Gigondas open, your own for visitors by appointment and the Perrins l ' Oustalet. I had a superb alfresco lunch with Perrin, but nevertheless was transcendent moment of this visit for me again at the winery, tasting five vintages from Beaucastel of large Châteauneuf du-Pape. We tried the 2009 and 2008, 2001, 2000, 1990. All were remarkable, but the 1990 rose above the rest. It had held a transparent, dark ruby colour, with a very complex flavor that sound different tones: truffles, sandalwood, black cherry, cured meat, a little bit of black olives.
"There are vines grow here since Roman times," Perrin said to me, "but my family bought the property in 1909." We have organic since 1950, and work biodynamic since 1974, but we can never say it on the bottle. It's like something my uncle used to say: "some people go in the Church and others only to see on the Church, simply because they believe.'"
Ray Isle Weinstraße journey takes him from Spain's Priory, Châteauneuf du-Pape France. Photo © Martin Morrell.
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