Chefs cooks love to toss around terms like "cuisine" and "comfort food", but too often, the results are more than friendly fantasy. Molly McCook - chef and co-owner of Ellerbe Fine Foods in Fort Worth - filled the gap. In the rooms bright and sunny station beautifully redesigned of ' 20s, the Shreveport native is champion of the flat South with a professional lustre. His meltingly tender braised pork shank, for example, is also easy to love (and understand) as a Braised Sunday, but a stone ground mustard glaze and East Texas - based Johnnie fair syrup gives it a touch of class. His lack of cabbage, a heavenly hash of fresh shrimp with corn, tomato has Texans of lapping up to one of the most legendary dishes of Louisiana. Who said that the cowman and the Cajun cannot be friends?
Ellerbe Fine Foods 1501 West Magnolia Avenue, Fort Worth (817-926-3663; ellberbefinefoods.com)
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