Tuesday, December 20, 2011

The ultimate wine geek road trip: Austria


This was my fifth and final day. When I moved region of Austria's Wachau in St. Nicholas Court I had driven more than 1,700 km and spent nearly 35 hours behind the wheel.

St. Nicholas is very old. The oldest Winery in Austria, it was a Celtic sacred site, then a Roman Fort to 511 AD. Then told that now owns it Romans links as well as, Nikolaus Saahs, whose family, me, "then, history is unknown until 777 ad, when a monastery was founded here."

Hear me the story of St. Nicholas Court brought some home. A particular thing, which was Romans that it maintain first grapes would together each region, the five-day I meet on my trip. (To take 1,700 miles was also me amazing, that the Romans kept together their empire with no mode of travel other than foot or on horseback.) Thread vereinheitlichende all the other countries, all cultures, but a single: Wine. It was gratifying, somehow.

A seemingly endless number of Austrian specialities in the restaurant the vineyard that night - Saahs of the mother, Christine, is a well known Austrian chef - I tasted wines St. Nicholas Court. If I had to choose a favorite, it would probably the family wine shop Grýner Veltliner, that is only in bottles after it has aged for a decade or longer in large wooden barrels. I love the fresh white peppery spice of Grýner, Austria's signature grape, and it may take (and improvement) far longer than to meet people. The Vinothek in 1993 the current year, intensive and long-lasting flavors, still had was amazing life, ending with an essential note of honeysuckle.

Earlier in the day taken Saahs me down to the oldest part of St. Nicholas Court basement, more than 1,800 years ago built. At that time the room had a wine cellar, and now it was a wine cellar. While we stood there, Saahs said: "I am only a small part of the history of this House, and I know it." Living two thousand years of history, and I'm here for 70 years? "This is nothing." True, nothing was 70 years. But here we were, in this small stone house talk about wine. And 1,800 years ago, two other people had been here in exactly the same place there is no doubt, talking about wine. Between, what was there? Wars, famines, revolutions, discoveries, Nations rise and fall, people their lives, and through all of it, no matter I attended what would, in any place, someone wine-making.

Wine Road Trip: Iconic Bottles

2010 Maximin Grýnhaus Abtsberg Riesling cabinet ($37) Dr. Carl von Schubert makes several excellent Abtsberg, his upper vineyard wines. This slatey filling is the easiest way to find one.

2010 St. Nicholas Court Grýner Veltliner yeast deduction ($30) A peppery white, it is a great introduction to the St. Nicholas Court of Grýners. Make sure wine shop on the powerful, spicy 1993 filling ($170).

2008 Château de Beaucastel Châteuneuf du-Pape ($98) Major manufacturers make excellent wines in hard years. This red purple scented complex is a perfect example.

2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione ($48)The vintage ' 07 in Barolo is spectacular, something this cuvée shows with its depth and elegance. It is made vineyards with grapes from several grand-Cru Barolo.

2009 Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofí ($70) Palacios of legendary L'ermita runs $800 per bottle. DofÍ costs a fraction of this, but it's still world-class powerful, yet subtle, with intense fruit and a mineral edge.

With the exception of Alvaro Palacios in Spain each winery on Ray is tour open to visitors by arrangement (with a fair amount of in advance).

Wine Road Trip: Beaucastel’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape vineyardsFrance's Château de Beaucastel. Photo © Martin Morrell.

Visits and tasting Beaucastel, Courthézon, can through his Web site (Beau castel.com) be organized. A table on l ' Oustalet book, restaurant in the city of Gigondas, go the Perrin family oustalet.com restaurant.

Call to the vietti.com to guided tours of Vietti of the winery and cellar, in the small town of Castiglione Falletto to arrange.

Close to the city of Trier, along the River Ruwer offers Grýnhaus sightseeing and wine tasting Monday to Saturday (vonschubert.com).

Nikolai courtyard, Mautern visitors can taste wine and taste traditional Austrian cuisine in the winery Tavern (nikolaihof.at).

Wine Road Trip: Austria

On his journey Weinstraße Ray Isle picked iconic bottles as an excellent Austrian Grüner Veltliner (Center). Photo © Constantine Poulos.


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