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F&W's favorite Caribbean hotels include La Samanna in St. Martin. Photo courtesy Orient Express Hotels Oprah and Jackie O have stayed at this iconic Caribbean hotel, where all 83 rooms have a view of the ocean and private white-sand beach. A recent renovation has added comfortable cabanas and two restaurants—one beachside-casual, one high-end French. At the latter, chef Gil Dumoulin, of Paris's famed Les Ambassadeurs, cooks Caribbean-inflected dishes like foie gras with mango. Guests can book the table in the candlelit wine cellar—at 12,000 bottles, the largest in the Caribbean—where sommelier Christian Mirande leads wine-and-cheese tastings and staffers pour local rums. Doubles from $445; lasamanna.com
At this property on an 850-acre private island, the gregarious staff is part of the charm: A resident scientist leads walking tours to see rare species like the rock iguana, and the gardeners are known to recite Chinese poetry. The newest addition is an El Bulli-trained head chef, Xavier Arnau, whose dishes, like apple gazpacho with shrimp, incorporate local fish and fruit from the organic orchard; he also plans to harvest winter vegetables from a new greenhouse. There are 15 cottages and four villas to choose from, half of which were just renovated. Doubles from $695; guana.com
After kayaking through the adjacent 5,000-acre Espíritu Santo nature reserve, guests at this sprawling, palm tree-dotted golf resort can watch a Champagne-sabering ceremony or have dinner at the Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant Fern. The menu is Asian-influenced—hamachi sashimi, grilled tenderloin with gingery shiitake mushrooms—with nods to local flavors in dishes like octopus with ají dulce, Puerto Rico's ubiquitous sweet peppers. After dinner, guests can head back out into nature, to the glowing bioluminescent bay in Fajardo. Doubles from $830; stregisbahiabeach.com
At this stylish hotel, French touches are everywhere: The gift shop sells Parisian lace dresses, the 40 newly revamped rooms incorporate vintage French fabrics and the ambitious wine list includes Burgundies from Chambertin, Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault. Villa guests are greeted with a bottle of Veuve Clicquot, and on Fridays, sommeliers lead Champagne tastings that include rare vintages of producers like Billecart-Salmon. The menu from chef Yann Vinsot (who trained at Burgundy's L'Espérance) combines French mainstays like sole meunière with Caribbean-inspired dishes like wahoo ceviche with coconut milk. Doubles from $675; isle-de-france.com
At the island's newest boutique hotel, the chefs bake bread, dry-age steak and cure bacon. Local ingredients like conch and spiny lobster appear frequently on the five-course winter tasting menu, which the staff will serve right on the beach. Each of the 21 enormous, shabby-chic suites has a beautiful, all-white kitchen. Suites from $594; beachhousetci.com
The Jamaican town of Port Antonio is constantly reinventing itself: In the 1950s it was a favorite hangout of movie stars like Errol Flynn, and before that it was known as the birthplace of jerk cooking. Now British music mogul Jon Baker is reviving it again. In December, Baker overhauled the 13-villa Trident Hotel, making it super-mod with the help of a young Jamaican architect, Vidal Dowding. "In the music industry, I've prided myself on developing new talent, and I applied that approach to finding our architect and our chef, both around 30," says Baker, who also runs the nearby resort Geejam. Trident's youthful vibe shows in playful touches like ultra-curvy Vitra Verner Panton chairs and eccentric animal sculptures; the food focuses on Jamaican-Japanese dishes like jerk sushi rolls. Baker also modernized the adjacent castle,the estate of former Trident owner Earl Levy, with additions like Apple TV; guests can take over the whole property or book one of its eight rooms. Next year, Baker will reopen the nearby Blue Lagoon restaurant, another onetime celebrity haunt. Hotel doubles from $600; castle doubles from $250; geejamcollection.com
Negril is known as a party town, but travelers come to this mellow resort to relax and unplug: The 18 thatched-roof, seaside cottages have no televisions. Local chefs lead jerk-cooking tutorials; guests can also tour a rum distillery, take yoga classes or get fresh coconut body treatments in the gardens. Doubles from $300; thespajamaica.com
Fed up with the fashionista crush of St. Barts, the artists Brice and Helen Marden decided six years ago to escape to Nevis and purchase this serene property 1,000 feet above the sea. "It was built in the 1800s as a sugarcane plantation, but I try not to focus on that," Helen says. "I took down a painting of people cutting cane. It's by a famous painter, Eva Wilkin, but I didn't want that hanging in the resort." Instead, she selected pieces by René Ricard and Darren Almond. The couple took over full ownership last year and, with the help of Miami landscape designer Raymond Jungles, began planting gardens. These now provide peppers and herbs for the cocktails, chutneys and sorbets served at their outdoor restaurant, overlooking spring-fed waterfalls. Chef Ricky Finch, a local, uses recipes from the couple's daughter, Melia Marden, the chef at The Smile restaurant in New York City. Doubles from $180; goldenrocknevis.com
Since the late '80s, when Island Records founder Chris Blackwell opened this boutique property (the former home of James Bond author Ian Fleming), he's steadily added villas with quirky amenities, such as retro-style Smeg refrigerators stocked with Red Stripe beer and sound systems that play tracks he produced for U2 and Bob Marley. Visitors can now take day trips to Pantrepant, Blackwell's private residence and sustainable farm, where they can gather produce like bok choy and oranges (which show up at all three of Blackwell's Jamaica resorts) or even milk a cow. The day ends with a Jamaican feast at the farm prepared by Blackwell's private chef, known as Mama J. Doubles start at $560; goldeneye.com
On the lush West Indies island of Dominica, Secret Bay's four cedar and Guyanese wood residences are built cleverly into the cliffs and trees à la Swiss Family Robinson—but with access to private chefs and modern kitchens with well-stocked wine fridges. The property is not a traditional hotel—there's no front desk or restaurant—but the concierge sets up experiences for each guest, arranging meals, in-villa jazz concerts and open-sea fishing excursions in a traditional wooden canoe (the fish can be prepared for dinner en suite by a local chef). Doubles from $402; secretbay.dm
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Lindt Perfect Pairings: Matching Chocolate & WinePhoto courtesy of Lindt.When you enjoy decadent chocolate alongside a wine specially selected to bring out all its nuanced flavors, you create a delicious experience for all the senses. To find an ideal pairing, start by selecting a dark chocolate, which has a greater intensity and more complex flavors than other chocolate varieties. Then look for a wine with a similar body and complementary taste profiles (for instance a bright, citrus-scented chocolate with a floral white wine, or a dark, spicy chocolate with a heavier-bodied red). Savor the rich taste of the chocolate as it starts to melt in your mouth, and then slowly sip from your glass. As the two combine on your palate, the intricate flavors of each will be elevated, creating an entirely new taste experience.
A refreshing chilled white wine like a sweet Riesling is the perfect pairing for Lindt EXCELLENCE Intense Orange. The silky dark chocolate brightened with citrus is a wonderful complement to the lychee, pear, orange, and floral notes of the wine.
Reach for a light-bodied red like Pinot Noir to match with Lindt EXCELLENCE A Touch of Sea Salt. Made with delicate, hand-harvested Fleur de Sel sea salt crystals that give it a pleasant crunch, this dark chocolate beautifully complements the earthy and smoky flavors of a good bottle of Pinot.
For an adventurous combination with a little heat, try Lindt EXCELLENCE Chili alongside a glass of Syrah. Look for a juicy vintage with deep, ripe berry notes and a spicy finish. Enjoyed together with the sweetly perfumed dark chocolate infused with fiery red chili, the two create a spicy warmth that bursts onto the palate. Another distinctive coupling that’s too good to miss is a fruit-forward Cabernet Sauvignon with Lindt EXCELLENCE 70%. The aromatic dark, ripe fruit flavors meld harmoniously with the chocolate’s sophisticated notes of tobacco, roasted nuts, and leather.
Enjoy these chocolate and wine pairings on their own, or use all four as the menu for a stress-free holiday party. Simply break the chocolate into pieces, pile them on pretty platters or in bowls, and set the partnered wines pairing next to each. Then sample them with your guests in the lightest-to-darkest progression above so you can build on the depth and complexity of the flavor profiles. You can also make pairing and sharing your love of dark chocolate even easier with the new Lindt EXCELLENCE individually wrapped chocolate diamonds. Perfect for enjoying on your own, sharing with friends, or with your favorite wine pairing.
To explore more delicious chocolate and wine pairings, visit: lindtexcellence.com.
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F&W’s Masters Series: Chocolate Lessons from Jean-François BonnetAn Expert's Pairing AdviceDecadent Desserts and The Wines That Love ThemPairing Chocolate and WineYou Might Also LikeCommentsAdd A CommentAdd a CommentSee our termsPost to FacebookCancelYou must be logged in to comment.LoginorSign upadvertisementvar ad=adFactory.getMultiCmAd(new Array("300x250","300x150"),"globalsidebar","tout");ad.write();$('#newsletter_form').submit(function(){cm_tout='CM Tout';news_array=new Array();if($("#dish_newsletter").is(':checked')){cm_tout='CM Tout- ';news_array.push('Dish');};if($("#wine_newsletter").is(':checked')){cm_tout='CM Tout- ';news_array.push('Wine');};if($("#daily_newsletter").is(':checked')){cm_tout='CM Tout- ';news_array.push('Daily');};newsletters=cm_tout+news_array.join(", ");$('#newsletter_source').val(newsletters);});\ABS\Auto Blog Samurai\data\World Best Food\Gourmet food\thedish_110x120.jpg)
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Top Chef 11: New Orleans Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series. Fantasy Top Chef Full Top Chef 11 Coverage Vote Now: America's Favorite Food Cities Take the Survey Photo © Matthias Merges 
Culinary Superstars in the Rocky Mountains Join celebrity chefs, renowned winemakers and epicurean insiders at the culinary world’s most spectacular weekend, the FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen, June 20-22. Get your tickets now! 
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13.0.8-20140228163219(function k(){window.$SendToKindle&&window.$SendToKindle.Widget?$SendToKindle.Widget.init({"content":"#content"}):setTimeout(k,500);})();(function(){var d=encodeURIComponent,f=window,g=document,h="documentElement",k="length",l="prototype",m="body",p="&",s="&ci=",t=",",u="?",v="Content-Type",w="Microsoft.XMLHTTP",x="Msxml2.XMLHTTP",y="POST",z="application/x-www-form-urlencoded",A="img",B="input",C="load",D="oh=",E="on",F="pagespeed_url_hash",G="url=";f.pagespeed=f.pagespeed||{};var H=f.pagespeed,I=function(a,b,c){this.c=a;this.e=b;this.d=c;this.b=this.f();this.a={}};I[l].f=function(){return{height:f.innerHeight||g[h].clientHeight||g[m].clientHeight,width:f.innerWidth||g[h].clientWidth||g[m].clientWidth}};I[l].g=function(a){a=a.getBoundingClientRect();return{top:a.top+(void 0!==f.pageYOffset?f.pageYOffset:(g[h]||g[m].parentNode||g[m]).scrollTop),left:a.left+(void 0!==f.pageXOffset?f.pageXOffset:(g[h]||g[m].parentNode||g[m]).scrollLeft)}};I[l].h=function(a){if(0>=a.offsetWidth&&0>=a.offsetHeight)return!1;a=this.g(a);var b=a.top.toString()+t+a.left.toString();if(this.a.hasOwnProperty(b))return!1;this.a[b]=!0;return a.top F&W's Portugal travel guide includes Villa Extramuros in Alentejo. Photo courtesy of Villa Extramuros Spanish-born owner Luis Carballo offers more than 80 different gins (on their own or with tonic), paired with ingredient-driven dishes like codfish salad with sea urchin caviar. tabernamoderna.com
Chef Nuno Bandeira de Lima serves affordable, tradition-tweaking dishes (such as slow-cooked cod with honey and almonds) in a century-old palace turned design-conscious hostel. thedecadente.pt
Chef Ricardo Costa has earned a Michelin star for his refined cooking here. The 1,000-plus-bottle wine list has an encyclopedic selection of great wines from Portugal. the-yeatman-hotel.com
A new venture from revered chef Pedro Lemos, this Portuguese tapas spot has an ambitious by-the-glass list of local wines. clerigos.net
These five minimalist rooms have views of olive groves, oak-tree forests and castle-topped hills. The on-call cook prepares local ingredients like cod. Doubles from $172; villaextramuros.com
This hotel has modern lines, but the food (grilled cuttlefish) is traditional, and the goat-milk spa treatment is inspired by Cleopatra. Doubles from $245; carmosboutiquehotel.com
Now a stunning boutique hotel, this 18th-century mansion has period details like antique copper fireplaces and blue-and-white tiles. Doubles from $124; palacio-ramalhete.com
Álvaro Castro makes a range of superb Dão wines (plus a Dão-Douro wine that he makes with Niepoort). The most celebrated is from Quinta da Pellada, where grapes have been grown since the 1500s. Tastings by appointment; quintadapellada.com
Pato, one of the brightest young winemaking talents in Portugal, produces complex, graceful wines with local Bairrada varieties like Baga and Bical. Visitors to her small, white-walled winery in Amoreira de Gândara should be sure to try her top red, Nossa. Tastings by appointment; filipapato.net
The owner of this estate north of Lisbon is longtime friends with star French winemaker Michel Chapoutier—a helpful connection, since the focus here is on Rhône Valley varieties like Syrah and Viognier as well as traditional Portuguese grapes. quintadomontedoiro.com
After a complete renovation, Graham's historic port lodge reopened to the public this past spring. Tours wind through more than 3,500 casks, some with wine dating back to the 1800s; the new Vinum restaurant has stunning views of the Douro River. grahamsportlodge.com
Le melanzane sono verdure buone e salutari, ricche di sapore, ma poverissime di calorie, sono l’ideale per preparare piatti gustosi, ma sempre con un occhio alla linea. In più questi ortaggi sono perfetti sia d’estate che d’inverno per realizzare pietanze che aiutino ad eliminare la cellulite. Ti chiederai come mai? Le melanzane infatti sono ricche di sali minerali e aiutano il lavoro dei reni, diminuendo la ritenzione idrica, attivando il metabolismo e riducendo la pancia.
La melanzana, originaria della Cina e arrivata in Europa secoli fa grazie agli Arabi è fortemente presente nelle nostre tavole e viene utilizzata per preparare piatti gustosi e saporiti, basti pensare ad esempio alla parmigiana di melanzane, un piatto super buono davvero da leccarsi i baffi. Il nome scientifico della melanzana è Solanum melongena ed appartiene alla famiglia delle solanacee, nella quale si trovano anche il pomodoro, il tabacco e il peperoncino.
Ma quali sono nello specifico le proprietà della melanzana? Prima di tutto la melanzana è una verdura povera di calorie, infatti ne contiene solo 16 per 100 grammi. Inoltre la melanzana si presta come ingrediente base di molte pietanze gustose ed in particolare è indicata per preparare i sughi poichè la sua polpa assorbe molto bene i condimenti.
La melanzana infine è molto ricca d’acqua, tanto che ne contiene circa il 93% e grazie a questa proprietà il suo consumo permette di stimolare il lavoro dei reni ed eliminare la ritenzione idrica. Nell’ortaggio poi troviamo una buona quantità di potassio, di fosforo, di vitamine A e C, di calcio e infine di tannino, al contrario possiede pochissimi grassi (circa lo 0,1%) e pochi zuccheri (pari al 2,6%). Ha proprietà depurative e lassative ed è ottima per regolarizzare e stimolare al meglio l’attività del fegato favorendo la produzione e di seguito l’eliminazione della bile.
Nella buccia invece si trovano partiolari sostanze che avrebbero effetti benefici sull’intestino e sul pancreas aiutando ad abbassare il livello di colesterolo cattivo. Infine la melanzana è particolarmente ricca di fibre, in partiolare la pectina, che favorisce il funzionamento e la regolarità dell’intestino.
Le melanzane, come detto, possono essere usate per preparare molti piatti. Sono ottime ad esempio affettate e cotte sulla piastra, per essere poi condite con un filo d’olio extravergine d’oliva e spezie. Ma sono buonissime anche cotte al forno con pomodorini e basilico, oppure appena sbollentate e passate nell’aceto per poi metterle nei vasetti con l’olio e l’aglio.
Il cachi è un frutto ricco di polpa e dolcissimo con pochi grassi e tantissime proprietà ottime per la salute. Contiene infatti potassio in grandi quantità, calcio e betacarotene per vincere la stanchezza e la mancanza di fame, ma soprattutto per rafforzare le difese immunitarie.
Il cachi è la soluzione giusta per mangiare bene e stimolare il sistema immunitario a difendere il nostro corpo dai malanni di stagione. Per capire quanto questo frutto sia ottimo per il tuo benessere ti basti sapere che secondo la tradizione il cachi è nominato “sole rosso d’autunno”, poichè per tradizione trattiene in sé la forza del sole estivo. Gli antichi greci addirittura lo chiamavano diospyros, ossia “bacca di Dio” poichè proteggeva dalle infezioni e dal freddo. Ciò è dovuto al fatto che è ricchissimo di potassio, ma anche di calcio, tannini e di provitamina A.
Per godere a pieno delle sue proprietà puoi mangiarlo con il cucchiaino come dessert, a merenda o a colazione. Oppure puoi preparare un concentrato per riattivare le difese immunitarie e vincere i malanni di stagione. Frulla un cachi sbucciato con due bicchieri di succo d’arancia rossa, ricca di vitamina C, ed un kiwi (oppure una melagrana). Assumi per un mese tutti i giorni questo frullato e vedrai che non ti ammalerai e riuscirai a sconfiggere tutti i virus di stagione.
Inoltre il cachi è anche un buonissimo rimedio contro la stanchezza . Frulla insieme il frutto con i semi mettendo anche qualche foglia. Mangia il frullato accompagnato da una bella insalata. Puoi anche tagliare a pezzi il cachi, se non è molto maturo e la polpa è soda, e mangiarlo con un po’ di prosciutto crudo o speck. Davvero buono!
Porta sempre con te questo ottimo frutto anti virus, a casa, a scuola, oppure in ufficio e vedrai che se seguirai il nostro consiglio e consumerai tutti i giorni un cachi per un mese non ti ammalerai più con questo freddo e sarai in forma anche quando tutti i tuoi amici si beccheranno l’immancabile influenza.
Photo courtesy of Melanie DuneaMelanie Dunea is known for their legendary portraits of world-renowned chefs, artists, musicians, stars and other prominent figures.
Their photography published and has been exhibited worldwide and has been honored with awards from American photography, PDN, communication arts, Graphis, society of publication design, international photography and the Lucie Foundation Dunea.
Dunea has published five books, including the renowned my last supper series. The success of the brand of my last supper led to Dunea hosting her own radio show on Martha Stewart Living radio and my last supper Web series. Dunea has appeared also to Charlie Rose, the Rachael Ray Show, top chef, and chewing.
She currently is a global Ambassador for the charity, the operation smile and serves the Food Bank for New York City Marketing Advisory Committee.
Dunea lives in New York City and is represented by creative photographers inc. follow her on Twitter and Instagram at @mylastsupper and follow the journey at www.mylastsupper.com.
E’ uno degli ortaggi invernali più buoni, perfetto per preparare ottimi piatti, ma anche per contrastare tante malattie come il diabete e il sovrappeso. Questo ortaggio si può preparare in tantissimi modi diversi ed è davvero ottimo. Portalo in tavola per combattere le malattie e rimanere magra e in salute.
La zucca è una verdura che arriva in Europa dall’America Centrale e fa parte della famiglia delle Cucurbitacee. Ne esistono di tipologie molto diverse sia per forma, per fusto, ma anche per colore e per dimensioni sia del frutto, che del seme.
La zucca è particolarmente povera di zuccheri e molto ricca di vitamine e di sali minerali. Possiede inoltre tantissime proprietà fortemente antidiabetiche ed antipertensive. A rivelare i benefici che la zucca può dare per la salute è stato uno studio realizzato in America da un gruppo di alcuni ricercatori dell’Università del Massachusetts e in seguito pubblicato sul “Journal of Medicinal Food”. Grazie a questo studio i ricercatori hanno scoperto che nei nativi americani alcune malattie moderne come il diabete di tipo 2, l’obesità e l’ ipertensione avevano un’altissima incidenza, ciò a ausa della loro alimentazione.
Infatti i nativi americani sarebbero passati da una dieta con un bassissimo contenuto di zuccheri ad una dieta ipercalorica, con cereali raffinati, bevande dolci, grassi saturi ed idrogenati. Secondo gli studiosi prima i nativi non avevano avuto queste malattie per via della loro alimentazione a base di mais, zucca e fagioli. La zucca infatti controlla i livelli di zucchero nel sangue e regola il metabolismo.
Come abbiamo detto la zucca è ottima per preparare tantissimi piatti gustosi, poco calorici e che fanno bene alla salute. La zucca può essere mangiata cotta nel forno, oppure al vapore, ma può essere usato anche per condire un bel risotto oppure delle minestre, ma anche tagliata a spicchi e fritta nella pastella. La zucca inoltre si abbina molto bene a tantissimi altri alimenti come gli spinaci, se tagliata a fette e cotta al forno, lo speck, tutti i formaggi salati che contrastano con la sua dolcezza, le mandorle, i funghi e i tartufi, ma anche le salsicce.
Il merluzzo con pomodoro e olive è tra le ricette a base di pesce semplici e veloci da realizzare.
Dirk Niepoort's family has been in the Portuguese wine business for over a century.The first wine that Dirk Niepoort ever made, back in 1990, was an old-vine blend of local Portuguese varieties, from a vineyard called Quinta do Carril in Portugal's Douro Valley. He called it Robustus. The name was apt: The wine was, as he recalls, "a monster." It was massive and powerfully tannic, almost overbearing in its intensity—but still, he felt, quite good. At the time, almost no one else in the Douro was making table wines. Port ruled the region, as it had since the 1700s. The Niepoort family business, which Dirk's father, Rolf, directed, was port.
Dirk made four barrels of Robustus, then headed off to Australia to work the harvest in the Barossa and extend his knowledge of winemaking. When he returned to Portugal several months later, he stopped by the family cellars in Oporto to taste how his wine was progressing. But the wine wasn't there. "My father," Niepoort recalls, "had given away three of the four barrels I made to the workers."
When Niepoort told me this, we were sitting at the table in his backyard, midway through one of the frequent dinner parties he likes to give. He's a talented cook, and he seems to enjoy nothing more than bringing together a crowd of friends, employees, other winemakers, passing journalists and anyone else, then plying them with terrific food and wine (the cellar under his house is jammed to the ceiling with bottles). It's a generosity of spirit that's appealingly Rabelaisian and very hard to dislike.
I said, "Your father gave away the wine you'd made? Why?"
"He said it was shit," Niepoort replied.
There are a few things to know about Dirk Niepoort beyond his refusal to mince words (apparently a trait that runs in the family). He is 49. The Niepoort family, which is Dutch, has been in the port business since 1842, when they moved to Portugal from Holland. Dirk Niepoort is the fifth generation to work for the family company, and since 1997, he has been in charge.
Prior to his involvement, the Niepoorts ran what was purely a port trading company. They purchased finished wines from growers in the Douro, then blended, aged and bottled them in Oporto, selling the end result under the Niepoort name (not an unusual practice at the time). Neither Dirk Niepoort's father nor his grandfather, in fact, ever spent a single night up in the Douro wine region; they lived and worked in Oporto. And while the company's ports had a good reputation, it was a limited one. As Niepoort says, "We were a good house, but we were a secret. We were well-known in Belgium, but that's it."
Though it may seem so in retrospect, Niepoort wasn't trying to make a statement when, at the age of 26, he produced that first table wine. "My general manager paints me as a visionary, which is bullshit," he says. "I like wine! That's why I wanted to make it." Today wine, not port, makes up 60 percent of the family business, and the company that was "well-known in Belgium" is the third-largest wine producer in the Douro. On top of that, visionary or not, Dirk Niepoort is probably the one person most responsible for changing the world's opinion of exactly how great Portuguese wine can be.
Up until relatively recently, Portugal had a reputation for making rough, inexpensive reds, plus a lot of nondescript, tangy Vinho Verde and an ocean of Mateus, a sweet, fizzy rosé sold in a flask-like bottle. As Beatriz Machado, the wine director for Oporto's new Yeatman Hotel (and a trained winemaker herself), says, "We missed the train of quality in Portugal. But there's been a big shift over the past 10 or 12 years." A lot of that shift can be attributed to the influence, either directly or indirectly, of Dirk Niepoort.
Niepoort is curious, ambitious, talented and—perhaps most important—extremely stubborn. Despite his father's vehement dislike of Robustus, a feeling shared by most of the established local winemakers for whom Niepoort also poured the wine, he kept going. "When I made Robustus," he recalls, "I said, my first wine is going to be a monster. But in 20 years I'm going to be making fine and elegant wines. And now, 20 years later, I am."
These days Niepoort makes 11 Douro wines—red, white and rosé—plus frequent experimental ones. Then there are (currently) nine fascinating wines that he produces jointly with other winemakers, some in Portugal and some not. Referred to as the "Niepoort Projectos," these collaborations usually head into the unexpected. What about making a white wine from Jerez, aged under a veil of yeast like a fino sherry, but not fortified? Why not make a bi-regional Dão-Douro blend? On top of that, there's the family's port business, which he has also expanded, and a winery that he co-founded in Austria, Muhr-van der Niepoort. Late last year, Niepoort purchased an estate in Portugal's Bairrada region, Quinta de Baixo; he'll release the first wines he's made there this month. In fact, Niepoort's unwillingness to stop contemplating new projects pretty much ensures that by the time this article appears in print, there will be something new to add to that list.
While there are plenty of winemakers in the world who produce scores of different wines, what makes Niepoort distinct is his approach to wine as a whole, and his ability to communicate that sensibility. From the beginning, he has seen wine—whether in the Douro or in the world at large—in terms of what might be possible, rather than what has already succeeded. This doesn't mean his technical approach to winemaking is radically experimental, though; if anything, it's the opposite.
"I use old-fashioned thinking and traditions, and modern possibilities," he says. "It's very simple winemaking. I don't use industrial yeasts, I don't use any chemicals, except for sulfur—it's truly non-interventional winemaking."
In a sense, Niepoort tends to see what might be rather than what is. A group of old, high-altitude Douro vineyards that produce obscure white varieties like Rabigato and Côdega do Larinho—which, for decades, had been destined for anonymous bottles of white port—could instead be a source for an extraordinarily complex, minerally white wine: Niepoort's Redoma Branco. Or a dry red from ancient Douro vineyards—made by foot-treading in old stone lagares, the way vintage port is traditionally made—could include the stems, a technique borrowed from Burgundy. The result is Charme, a gorgeously aromatic wine that manages to transform the innate power of a Douro red into Burgundian finesse. As Beatriz Machado says, Charme "is a wine that really has the sensibility of a great Pinot Noir, but using Portuguese grapes. No one had thought to do that before. It was like dropping a bomb on people's ideas here."
But as influential as all these Douro wines have been, Niepoort's projects with other winemakers around the world are the ones that seem to point directly toward the future. The exchange of ideas in the wine world is far more fluid than it used to be (just as it is in practically every other business), but winemakers on the whole remain somewhat parochial: Those in Rioja usually drink Rioja; those in Bordeaux, Bordeaux; those in California, in large measure, drink wines from California. There have been "flying winemakers," a term coined for consultants who work in other countries than their own, but for the most part, their role has been to show up for a couple of days every few months, offer advice on blending or winemaking strategies and then disappear, leaving behind a substantial bill for their services and the promise of higher critical scores. Many would argue that they promote a kind of polished, international homogeneity more than anything else.
Niepoort's approach is more of a natural give and take, and it represents a new style of cross-border wine collaboration that is only just beginning to appear. For instance, he and acclaimed Spanish winemaker Raúl Pérez spent several years making two wines together, one in Ribeira Sacra and one in the Douro. They produced only a thousand or so bottles each vintage, but as Niepoort says, "The point is that Raúl learned a lot from us, and we learned a lot from him. So what if it's only a thousand bottles? I'd give them away—the exchange of ideas is worth it."
He adds, "It's not about money, this exchange. It's about culture, respect, sharing. With Raúl, his style of winemaking, I learned that maybe I'm too nervous about some things—that I should relinquish a little control. I remember he said to me, 'Dirk—personality. It's not whether the wine is better or worse. It's whether a wine has personality.'?"
That's not to say that joint ventures are something new. In Napa, Opus One—a collaboration between Robert Mondavi and the Baron de Rothschild—released its first vintage in 1984, and there have been plenty of others since. But the impetus with those projects has always been to create a signature wine, or a brand: camaraderie aimed toward profit. With Niepoort's collaborative ventures, it's more the journey itself that's the purpose. Already, there are some similar efforts floating around. One example is Détente, a half-Californian, half–French Rhône-style blend that's a joint effort between Santa Barbara County's Joey Tensley and Cécile Dusserre of the southern Rhône's Domaine de Montvac. Another is Chimère, a joint project between Manfred Krankl of Sine Qua Non and the Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers Pascal and Vincent Maurel. In a way, these ventures are more reminiscent of the shared experimentation common in the craft-beer world than anything found in wine.
Niepoort's influence isn't limited to these joint projects, though. Young winemakers from Portugal and abroad have drawn inspiration from working harvests with him. As Mac Forbes, who makes some of Australia's most impressive Pinot Noirs and worked with Niepoort in Portugal in 2004, says, "The thing I think Dirk offers for people is that he makes them stop and reevaluate everything, makes them rethink all their preconceptions."
At that dinner in Portugal, Niepoort said simply, "I make what I want. Then I try to explain it to people. That's what I do."
The food was long gone, but wine was still being poured. Toward the end of the evening, Niepoort emerged from his house carrying a mystery wine in a decanter. We all tasted it. It was obviously old, but still alive, full of dark, velvety fruit. To me, it recalled a chimerical blend of a Châteauneuf-du-Pape from a great producer (Henri Bonneau came to mind) and the exotic and sometimes slightly weird wines of Lebanon's Chateau Musar. The faint whiff of volatile acidity in the aroma—oddly evocative, rather than off-putting—put me in mind of something Jacques Lardière, the extraordinary former winemaker for Louis Jadot, once said: "A wine's magic doesn't derive from its technical perfection."
The wine turned out to be one of the remaining bottles from that single barrel of Robustus. It did, in fact, seem somewhat magical that the wine was there, and I said something to the effect of how crazy it was that his father could have thought something this good was a disaster.
Niepoort said thoughtfully, "One day a few years ago, I had a birthday party, and I opened and decanted a magnum of 1991 Redoma." The '91 Redoma was the first wine he released commercially, since there was not enough Robustus left to sell. He went on: "Some time went by, and I looked around, and I couldn't find the decanter. Where was the wine? It turned out my father had drunk most of it. So, I thought, Well. My wines can't be that bad."
The Niepoort family founds a port company in Oporto. They buy and blend wine rather than make it.
The Douro Valley becomes an official appellation for table wine.
Dirk Niepoort joins the family business, working with his father, Rolf. At Dirk's urging, the company begins buying vineyards in the Douro Valley—Quinta de Nápoles and Quinta do Carril.
Despite resistance from his father, Niepoort starts making table wine rather than port; the first release is the 1991 Redoma Tinto. Eventually, dry wines will account for more than half of their business.
Niepoort builds a slate-walled, state of-the-art winery at Quinta de Nápoles, designed by famed Austrian architect Andreas Burghardt.
After the departure of winemaker Luis Seabra, Niepoort is spending more time in his own cellars—"I need to hit the reset button there," he says.
This bright, juicy red blend of Douro varieties, such as Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca, is Niepoort's most affordable wine.
Niepoort's flagship white could be an award-winner for "best collection of really obscure white grapes." It's an aromatic blend of Rabigato, Côdega do Larinho, Arinto, Gouveio, Boal and Viosinho—and those are just the significant ones.
This unusual Spanish wine—a zesty white that's also almondy and saline, like a fino sherry—is a joint effort between Niepoort and Jesús Barquín of the groundbreaking sherry producer Equipo Navazos.
Redoma is the wine that proved Niepoort right about dry wines from the Douro. The acclaimed first vintage, 1991, is still drinking gorgeously today; the latest, '09, which tastes like a handful of wild strawberries, should live just as long.
With all the buzz about the table wines, it's easy to forget that Niepoort also makes excellent ports—especially in a truly great vintage like 2011.
Even though there's still tons of work to be done in the cellar, the Collective takes time to celebrate the harvest with its Nouveau.When your house is on the same block as a winery, you might need to dodge forklifts when you walk your dog, or navigate around a sorting table when you ride your bike. Such is life in Portland, Oregon's Southeast district, home to the Southeast Wine Collective. An incubator space with seven small producers sharing equipment and know-how, it's part of Portland's growing winemaking scene—with a welcoming tasting bar for locals to sample the wines.
The couple behind Division Winemaking Company, Tom and Kate Monroe, founded the Collective in 2012. After studying with winemakers in Burgundy's Beaujolais region, they knew they wanted to start a winery in Oregon but weren't sold on country living. Today, in a warehouse surrounded by restaurants, shops and Craftsman-style houses, they turn Pinot Noir and Gamay (Beaujolais's signature grape) into outstanding wines.
Finding enough fruit is a challenge. "There was a fair amount of Gamay planted in Oregon in the late 1970s and '80s," says Scott Frank of Bow & Arrow, a former member of the Collective. "But a lot was torn up. We have to be grape detectives to find hidden plots."
Inspired by Beaujolais—where winemakers celebrate the first wines of the vintage, called Beaujolais Nouveau, on the third Thursday in November—the Collective teams up with St. Jack restaurant for an Oregon Nouveau party. Made in five weeks, the wines deliver fruity, juicy pleasure. "Tom and I joke that if we catch anyone sniffing or swirling, we'll knock the glass out of their hands," says Frank.
Joel Gunderson, St. Jack's sommelier and general manager, came up with the idea for the party, which takes place on the street. St. Jack's chef ladles out bacony, Gamay-infused beef bourguignon and the pastry chef turns île flottante into a sliceable meringue—much easier to handle while dodging forklifts.
"Top Chef: New Orleans," the eleventh season of the Emmy and James Beard Award-winning series, premieres Wednesday, October 2 at 10 pm ET.
Host Padma Lakshmi will be joined at the judges' table by lead judge Tom Colicchio, F&W's Gail Simmons, star chef Hugh Acheson and New Orleans' own Emeril Lagasse.
This season challenges contestants with serving up incredible dishes to a slew of celebrity guest judges, including local New Orleans legends Kermit Ruffins and Dr. John and top entertainers like Lea Michele, Anthony Mackie, Questlove, Paul Prudhomme, Jacques Pepin, David Chang, John Besh, and Eddie Huang.
The winner will receive $125,000 furnished by Healthy Choice, a feature in Food & Wine magazine, a showcase at the Annual Food & Wine Classic in Aspen and the title of “Top Chef.”
For more Top Chef news and coverage, visit bravotv.com/top-chef.
Bene Bartolotta
New York City
Ramon Bojorquez
San Diego, CA
Janine Booth
New York City
Shirley Chung
Fremont, CA
Jason Cichonski
Philadelphia, PA
Stephanie Cmar
Boston, MA
Nina Compton
Miami, FL
Aaron Cuschieri
Chicago, IL
Justin Devillier
New Orleans, LA
Nick Elmi
Philadelphia, PA
Carlos Gaytan
Chicago, IL
Brian Huskey
Los Angeles, CA
Sara Johannes
Minneapolis, MN
Louis Maldonado
Healdsburg, CA
Travis Masar
La Junta, CO
Carrie Mashaney
Carpenter, IA
Bret Pelaggi
Miami, FL
Michael Sichel
New Orleans, LA
Patricia Vega
New York City
Gustosi, alla moda, ma soprattutto sani, si tratta degli smoothies, colorati frullati a base di frutta, latte o yogurt che stanno spopolando nel nostro paese e che non solo sono buoni e sani, ma aiutano anche a dimagrire. La moda degli smoothies arriva dagli Stati Uniti dove si diffuse negli anni 60 e solo oggi arriva nel nostro paese dove gli smoothies stanno davvero spopolando. Infatti questi frullati di frutta, ma anche di verdura, sono buonissimi e davvero sani, ricchi di vitamine, sali minerali e sostanze che garantiscono la salute dell’organismo, vengono arricchiti anche con ghiaccio, latte, yogurt oppure spezie a seconda dei gusti.
Sono perfetti per chi non ha tempo, è sempre di corsa e vuole tornare in forma, vellutati e morbidi, sono ricchi di gusto, ma con poche calorie. A questi beveroni colorati è legata anche una dieta che in America sta avendo un grande successo. Se vai di corsa, ma vuoi sentirti bene prova uno smoothie, prepararlo è davvero facile, bastano cinque minuti per gustare un frullato morbido e cremoso. Per prepararli puoi usare la tua fantasia e quello che hai in frigo.
Se hai voglia di salato puoi prepararti una merenda con qualche spezia, carote e pomodori, mentre se vuoi puntare sul dolce il consiglio è quello di mescolare insieme la frutta di stagione che ti piace di più: mela, pera, kiwi, arancia, mandarino oppure ananas, hai solo l’imbarazzo della scelta. Segui il gusto e scegli il tuo smoothie, noi ti preponiamo qualche esempio poi fai tu.
Smoothie arancia, mela e cannella
1 mela;
1 arancia;
una stecca di cannella;
25 ml di yogurt bianco.
Smoothie mela, zenzero e miele
1 mela;
50 ml di ghiaccio;
un po’ di zenzero;
un cucchiaio di miele.
Smoothie mirtilli, fragole e yogurt greco
80 gr di more;
80 gr di fragole;
70 gr di yogurt greco cremoso.
Smoothie menta e ananas
70 gr di ananas;
qualche foglia di menta;
50 ml di latte.
Smoothie banana e cioccolato
1 banana;
3 cucchiai di cioccolato amaro;
50 ml di latte;
Smoothie cocco, fragola e banana
1 banana;
200 gr di fragole;
150 ml di latte di cocco.
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Se vogliamo aiutare il nostro organismo a sconfiggere le malattie di stagione dobbiamo prima di tutto modificare la nostra alimentazione mettendo a tavola solo determinati cibi che devono essere leggeri, depurativi e ricostituenti.
Dunque per poter aiutare il nostro corpo a superare bene questo freddo periodo dell’anno nel quale le malattie sono in agguato è necessario non affaticarci consumando cibi o bevande che hanno una forte difficoltà di digestione. Si tratta di alimenti come le carni rosse, i formaggi stagionati, i salumi, i fritti, lo zucchero bianco, l’alcol e il caffè. Infatti questi cibi creano nel nostro corpo delle scorie che indeboliscono gli anticorpi e rendono molto più aggressivi i virus e i batteri che colpiscono in questa stagione causando numerose malattie.
Per combattere l’influenza a tavola per prima cosa è necessario mangiare ogni giorno dei cibi particolarmente ricchi di vitamina A e C in grado di aumentare le difese (in particolare gli agrumi, i kiwi e la papaia). La colazione dovrà essere a base di latte (meglio se latte di riso o di soia), un vasetto di yogurt bianco magro o alla frutta, un succo di frutta, del pane di segale con sopra spalmato un filo di miele, del tè verde e del caffè, che stimolano gli anticorpi. Questi cibi inoltre offrono un’alta a dose di zinco e rame, dei minerali che svolgono una funzione antinfettiva.
Ottimi anche i brodi vegetali, gli ortaggi al vapore oppure il riso condito con l’olio extravergine d’oliva con l’agggiunta di un ingrediente segreto anti influenza ossia un cucchiaio di semi di lino. Per quanto riguarda le proteine invece sono particolarmente indicati il pesce e le carni bianche, evitate invece i formaggi grassi, che favoriscono la formazione di catarro. Per ultimo cercate di bere molta acqua, in particolare acqua naturale, che deve essere circa 2 litri al giorno. Bevete anche tè verde, centrifugati e spremute di frutta che idratano e accellerano la guarigione.
Il menù anti influenza
Colazione
Spuntino
Pranzo
200 gr di verdure al vapore150 gr di petto di pollo alla piastra con spezie miste80 gr di pasta integrale con pomodoro e basilicoMerenda
uno yogurt intero con un cucchiaio di mieleun frutto di stagioneCena
180 gr di patate al forno200 gr di salmone al cartoccio con erbette200 gr di verdure alla piastra
Mashed potatoes with crispy shallotsStir in mayonnaise.
Whether you crush with a ricer or smash potatoes with a fork, there is a surefire way to make even creamier: Mayo. Even the store-bought stuff folded, gives an irresistible richness and lush texture. If you, below are, try this crazy-good - rich & creamy mashed potatoes.
Exchange the potato.
The buttery texture and sweet by sweet potatoes make a perfect complement to traditional and non-traditional Thanksgiving menus. They are often with marshmallows or found drizzled with maple syrup, which is absolutely delicious. But this version is a little more elegant: vanilla bean whipped sweet potatoes.
Punch the heat.
Americans love of spicy chiles, sriracha heat. Add smoked hot paprika (pimentón De La Vera a.k.a..), that, together with a subtle smoky flavor. It can be stirred or on top sprinkled. Hot sauce, such as Tabasco, blends easily with room temperature butter, to serve at the table. But if you a little more interesting, include this phenomenal sweet potatoes are whipped with Harissa, fiery Tunisian spice looking for something.
Top it with something crunchy.
Even if you are set on the classic blend of white potatoes and butter, or if you have saved a little time, by attempting collection in the Delicatessen -, equip mashed potatoes with chopped crispy bacon or fried shallots. The pads are but add fantastic texture. This ultra here, try fluffy Mashed potatoes with crispy shallots.
Add a root.
Combining the various root vegetables in a pan has long been a tradition of roasting, but they incorporate into mashed potatoes adds flavor and health lead. Think beets, parsnips and celery root. Just enough be the earthy flavor of the potatoes, magnify, and the Bowl Classic and nostalgic.
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At Gustu, dishes focused on Bolivian ingredients, like a cauliflower trio, reflect the vision of Claus Meyer. If you had asked me last year to guess where the next great destination restaurant would pop up, my answer would not have been La Paz, Bolivia. The second-largest city in one of South America's poorest countries, La Paz is not on the tourism circuit. Getting there from New York City required a journey of close to 20 hours, and once I arrived, it took a few days to acclimate to the altitude. At 12,000 feet above sea level, the air there is so thin that, for my first 24 hours, I felt as if an invisible vise had been secured to my temples and was being slowly, mercilessly tightened.
And yet, La Paz is the city that Claus Meyer, the visionary co-owner of Noma in Copenhagen, chose as the setting for his next and perhaps most ambitious project: Gustu. Like Noma, Gustu is a cutting-edge restaurant that uses avant-garde technique in the service of extreme locavorism. But in Bolivia, Meyer is facing an added degree of difficulty. Here, he doesn't just want to engineer a world-class restaurant. He wants to "combat poverty with deliciousness."
Meyer didn't pick La Paz at random: In collaboration with the Danish nongovernmental organization Ibis, he funded a two-year-long investigation to find the location. The process examined countries around the world in five categories: low crime, high poverty, political stability, biological diversity and a cuisine that didn't effectively showcase the country's incredible ingredients.
On paper, Bolivia was the clear winner. Poorer but also safer and more stable than its neighbors, the country has one of the most diverse ecologies on the planet, with three distinct climate zones that produce more than 1,200 varieties of potatoes alone, as well as an astonishing and exotic array of tropical fruits, fish, grains and herbs. There are hot pink papa lisa tubers, otherworldly fruits like the pacay (a large green pod filled with fluffy white flesh that tastes a bit like lychee) and lots of llama meat (which is surprisingly tender). In contrast to neighboring Peru, Brazil and Argentina, Bolivian cuisine is underdeveloped. Even in La Paz, most high-end restaurants serve bastardized Italian or French food in comically formal, Continental-style dining rooms. "The learning process of creating Noma, and the revolution that has changed the food culture of Denmark, was too important to keep for ourselves," Meyer told me.
Meyer imported only a few things to Bolivia: Two chefs, Kamilla Seidler (who is Danish) and Michelangelo Cestari (an Italian citizen born in Venezuela), who both speak Spanish and have worked at some of the world's best restaurants, including England's Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons and Spain's Mugaritz. Also Jonas Andersen, a six-foot-seven restaurant manager and sommelier who's a blond giant among the dark-haired locals, one American barista and a battery of high-tech gear, including a Thermomix and a Pacojet. Everything else—from the wine to the servers—is Bolivian. The staff was chosen from a pool of 600 low-income families, almost none of whom had serious culinary experience before embarking on Gustu's two-year training course. It's the stuff of reality TV—watch newbie cooks run an ultra-high-end restaurant!—except this is actual reality.
Seidler and Cestari faced other challenges when they arrived here in the fall of 2012. For example, there is only a very rudimentary distribution infrastructure in Bolivia. One of their first orders of llama meat was delivered in an un-air-conditioned taxi by a woman wearing the traditional bowler hat and ruffled skirt of Bolivia's indigenous people; the carcass was wrapped in a colorful blanket. (Meyer is planning to buy a refrigerated truck and open a warehouse for Gustu.) The absurd altitude has meant that nearly every one of the chefs' recipes has had to be adjusted. Seidler's bread dough needs nearly 40 percent more water to rise here than at sea level. Even making an espresso is a difficult project, because water boils at just 186.8 degrees (boiling point at sea level is 212 degrees).
My dinner, a tasting at the chefs' table inside the glass-enclosed kitchen, began with those pink papa lisa from the high plains of the Andes, served with sweet chunks of beets and dried hibiscus pressed into a crackly paper. Next came a salad of amaranth grains, plump dried cherries from the central valleys and watercress stems, all tossed in Bolivian brown butter. One of the simplest dishes was the best, a shallow bowl of choclo, the big-kerneled Andean corn, topped with shredded rabbit confit and a dusting of lime zest. The richest protein was llama meat: thin slices, sautéed in a syrup made with red bananas from the Amazonian jungle and topped with a creamy Brazil nut sauce. At around $60 for five courses, including wine, the meal was hands-down my best culinary bargain this year. Big spenders can upgrade to a 15-course tasting with snacks, a cocktail and wine for $135. A similar meal at Noma would cost around $450.
Comparing Noma and Gustu isn't quite fair, though. Noma, which has been open since 2003 and is considered one of the best restaurants in the world, typically receives around 20,000 reservation requests a month. Gustu, just six months old, is still relatively unknown. I reached out to a few influential, large-camera-toting, continent-hopping food bloggers, and none were planning a trip to Gustu. "I have to admit, I don't know anything about the food that Meyer plans to serve at Gustu, but whatever it is, it doesn't seem to be happening organically," says Bonjwing Lee of Ulterior Epicure. It doesn't help that diners who do make the trek are left, after their meal, in a city with few creature comforts. If Meyer ever opens a boutique hotel—complete with an oxygen bar—that would certainly add to Gustu's appeal.
Still, with Gustu, Meyer has done something incredible: He's created a thought-provoking, one-of-a-kind food experience. In a world of prefab restaurants—with superstar chefs opening carbon copies of their flagships on nearly every continent—that can be increasingly hard to find. I ate at Gustu just three days after the restaurant opened its doors. I have dined out on the story ever since.
Jane Black is writing a book for Simon & Schuster about a West Virginia town's struggle to change its food culture.
Le arance sono un frutto tipico dell’inverno che può aiutarti non solo a rimanere in salute, prevenendo le malattie di stagione, ma anche a sentirti più bella e più magra. Basta solo uno spicchio al giorno per ottenere ottimi risultati. Questo frutto succoso e zuccherino infatti aiuta a prevenire i tumori, permette di prevenire l’influenza e il raffreddore, ma migliora pure la pelle, regalandoti un aspetto disteso, epidermide luminosa, morbida ed elastica. Infine protegge il cuore e le arterie sconfiggendo il colesterolo e prevenendo gli infarti e tiene lontano la fame permettendoti di vincere gli attacchi di fame nervosa.
Ma da dove derivano queste proprietà prodigiose dell’arancia? Semplice, dalla vitamina C che permette di rinforzare le difese immunitarie e sconfiggere le aggressioni all’organismo dei virus di stagione. Per questo motivo l’arancia se mangiata tiene lontano le malattie, mentre può aiutare a guarire più in fretta se ci si è già ammalati. Potete per esempio consumare l’arancia sotto forma di spremuta, ma attenzione, consumatela immediatamente, altrimenti perderà tutte le sue proprietà.
Infatti a contatto con l’aria i composti che si trovano nel succo di questo frutto esauriscono il loro potere. Basta solo un’ora perchè una spremuta d’arancia da elisir di benessere si trasformi in semplice succo di frutta. Se spremi le arance è meglio, ma se non puoi e vai troppo di fretta, compra il succo al supermercato scegliendo però solo un succo di frutta al 100% naturale.
L’arancia è anche un frutto perfetto per la tua bellezza. Il succo di questo agrume infatti permette di idratare la pelle e grazie ai caroteni, aiuta ad avere una pelle sempre giovane e bella. Nell’arancia sono presenti anche i flavonoidi che insieme con la vitamina C, aiutano l’epidermide a ricostruire totalmente il collagene riducendo anche il rischio di tumore alla pelle.
L’arancia mangiata a spicchi è infine perfetta per poter sconfiggere la fame nervosa. Mangiala quando senti la fame salire, come spuntino per tapapre “il buco allo stomaco”. Ciò che placa la fame è la parte bianca dell’arancia, che frena la fame. Inoltre la metà di tutta la pectina si trova proprio nella parte bianca, chiamata albedo.
Inoltre ogni arancia contiene solamente 34 calorie per ogni 100 grammi, questo perchè per il 90% è formata da acqua, ma anche zuccheri, minerali, fibre, vitamine e acidi organici.
To make artisanal vegan cheese, Kite Hill uses pure nut milks and a secret vegetable enzyme. Tal Ronnen, the goateed chef behind Kite Hill, quivers with humiliation as he recalls the beginning of his three-year quest to create the world's best vegan cheese.
"Steve Wynn had just gone vegan," Ronnen says, referring to the Las Vegas casino magnate. "In 2009, he hired me to develop vegan menus for 12 of his restaurants." Ronnen was well known for having designed Oprah Winfrey's 21-day vegan cleanse. Nevertheless, he felt intimidated by the task of creating vegan menus for a half-dozen cuisines at once. So he was already nervous when he brought Wynn's chefs together for a tasting of vegan alternatives to staples like eggs, butter and milk.
"I brought in a vegan cheese that I thought was a decent product, and one of Wynn's chefs spit it out in front of everybody," Ronnen says, still palpably mortified. "It was so embarrassing."
The story of what happened next— Ronnen's journey through old-world cheesemaking, 21st-century biotech and Silicon Valley venture capital—perfectly expresses the newest wave in culinary entrepreneurialism: an exquisitely Californian combination of environmentalist and vegan ethics, earnest commitment to flavor and pleasure and confidence that money and technology can make the world a better place.
Even more intriguing, Ronnen also represents a trend of curious chefs opening their own research-and-development studios to chase their most out-there inspirations. In Copenhagen, chef René Redzepi's Nordic Food Lab recently received a six-figure grant from a Danish nonprofit to fund experiments in "insect gastronomy" as part of a United Nations push to get humans eating a more environmentally sustainable diet. And Momofuku chef David Chang's New York City lab is a hive of microbial projects, as his R&D team creates umami-rich, miso-style pastes out of pistachios, sweet potatoes and chickpeas. For some chefs, these labs are mostly about inventing new dishes for their own kitchens, but for others, like Chang and Ronnen, they hold the promise of reaching a far bigger audience.
Ronnen, who didn't have a lab of his own, started by touring the cheese-making rooms at Le Cordon Bleu Boston, where he met veteran instructor Monte Casino. He explained his mission: to make vegan cheeses worthy of a great chef. "I had no clue how we were going to do it," says Casino, a small and wiry former chef with big, intense eyes, "but I started messing around in my lab after hours."
Cheesemaking, at its most elemental, involves acidifying milk—souring it, really—and then adding the enzyme rennet to thicken the proteins and fat. Casino wasn't the first to realize that nut milk has the same four basic components as dairy milk—sugar, protein, fat and water—and should, hypothetically, thicken in the same way.
A friend of Ronnen's, Stanford University biochemist Dr. Patrick Brown, already had a private side project developing ultra-pure nut milks for vegan cheesemaking. Casino began tinkering with samples of Brown's almond- and macadamia-nut milks. Casino put the nut milk into a double-boiler with a PolyScience immersion circulator, a device embraced by chefs for sous vide cooking to control the temperature of a water bath. Then he added a bacterial starter culture, the industry standard in dairy cheesemaking, with a vegetable rennet to thicken it. "Absolutely nothing happened," Casino says.
Brown thought that the rennet might be the problem—so he shipped Casino a sample of a new enzyme he'd discovered, one that occurs naturally in plants and microbes, to help thicken the cheese. The morning after adding the enzyme (Kite Hill won't release its exact name for proprietary reasons) to a batch of nut milk, Casino arrived at the lab and put his spatula into the milk. It emerged with "curds all over it." Since the curds slipped through a traditional perforated cheese mold, Casino went out and bought some panty hose. "We washed them real good, lined the interior of the perforated mold, and it was brilliant!"
Days later, Ronnen was in Boston promising to put his life savings into the project. He and Brown convinced Casino to move to California and lined up investment from Khosla Ventures, a Silicon Valley venture capital firm specializing in green technology. Jean Prevot, director of operations for Laura Chenel's Chèvre, also joined Kite Hill to help them design and build a production facility in Hayward, California, just a few hundred yards from the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay.
Pushing open the front door at Kite Hill headquarters on a recent Monday morning, I entered a large office space indistinguishable from countless Bay Area startups, with too much room for too few employees. Then I donned a white lab coat, sterile shoe covers and a hair cover and followed Prevot and Casino through a double set of doors into a pressurized room. Stainless steel vats and metal tubing coursed across ceilings in a high-tech facility converting Californian almonds and Hawaiian macadamia nuts into nut milk. (It took a team of researchers to find the best variety of almond to use—they tested 27 different samples, creating one-kilogram test cheeses from each one.)
Casino disappeared briefly behind the unmarked door blocking entry to the top-secret Kite Hill R&D lab, a sterile, pressurized room cluttered with cheese-aging chambers, temperature control boxes and a pasteurizer for ongoing experiments with both a Roquefort-style blue and—Casino's current dream project—a sunflower-based Parmesan.
Back in the office space, I sat at a conference table to try the four Kite Hill cheeses already in full production. The Cassucio (falling into the same "soft fresh" category as ricotta and most chèvre) is tangy and light, with a mild, delicate flavor that would make it ideal for a tomato-cucumber salad. (It also comes in a truffle, dill and chive flavor.) The White Alder, a so-called "soft-ripened" cheese in the same category as Brie and Camembert, has enough complexity to pair with a good white wine. Costanoa is a semisoft cheese similar to Havarti and comes dusted with paprika and fennel pollen.
Cathy Strange, the global cheese buyer for Whole Foods Market, tasted the Kite Hill lineup earlier this year. "I loved it instantly," she says. "I could taste the culture, the rind. I've never, ever seen this kind of texture in an alternative milk product." As a result of that tasting, Kite Hill reached a deal to retail exclusively through Whole Foods. Kite Hill has also begun making a nut-based ricotta for the Whole Foods prepared-food counters that genuinely knocked me out, especially when I used it one night in a zucchini-corn succotash.
Ronnen himself now uses all of the Kite Hill cheeses at his vegan Mediterranean restaurant, Crossroads, in Los Angeles. Best of all, in a recent tasting of Kite Hill cheeses back at the Wynn, he says, "That same chef, the one who spit out the cheese three years ago, loved mine so much, he asked if he could take some home to his wife."
Daniel Duane wrote about the late-night menu at Chez Panisse in F&W's October 2013 issue.
