Showing posts with label Sandwiches. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sandwiches. Show all posts

Monday, September 3, 2012

Lessons from Bread Artisan Chad Robertson: Storing, Slicing and Making Sandwiches

The co-owner of San Francisco’s Tartine Bakery, Chad Robertson, is a baking expert, but good bread deserves proper care. Here, Robertson reveals essential tips for bread lovers from how to revive an old loaf to where to buy an exceptional knife that will razor through a sturdy crust. Featured Recipes

A breadbox is still the best way—one that’s slightly ventilated, but keeps the moisture in. They usually they have some grate, something like a pie safe, that keeps the draft off but doesn’t let it become totally soft.

Wrapping it in a piece of linen is an alternate way, or a paper bag with a piece of cloth around it.

Plastic is only good for freezing, or if you want to keep the bread for a few days. Once you take the bread out of the oven, there’s a continual moisture exchange that happens from the inside out. That’s why the crust eventually gets soft though it starts out so crispy: The moisture is migrating out and softening the crust. If you put the bread in plastic, it makes this happen faster because it stops any evaporation. If you plan on wrapping it in plastic for a few days, like if a customer tells me they’re going back to the East Coast and will eat my bread in two days, I tell them to put it in plastic, but leave the bread out at room temperature. Then when you want to eat it, take it out of the plastic bag and put it either loosely wrapped in foil or straight into a pretty hot oven, like 400, 420, 450 degrees, until the loaf is heated all the way to the center. Then you’ve almost completely restored it to how it first came out. It might look a little beat up, but the crust will look steamy and fresh again.

Never put bread in a refrigerator. Refrigerators stale bread quickly. Harold McGee talks about that in his book On Food and Cooking—that’s the first place I read about it, in culinary school, because it was one of our textbooks. Staling is not necessarily moisture loss, it’s water migrating from one part of the starch to another. You can reverse that process by heating bread up again—although not 10 times, maybe once or twice at the most. But every degree cooler increases the rate of staling, so the fridge, which is ideally just above freezing, is at the worst possible temperature to store bread.

A good bread knife is important. When a loaf has all the qualities I like, it’s hard to cut, because it’s got a hard crispy crust and an inside that’s really soft and wet. It’s tricky not to crush the bread, or for the blade not to skip. I’m a big fan of the blade designed by Bob Kramer. Shun and J.A. Henckels now both make one. It’s not cheap, but it’s got an unusual serration, a repeating pattern of three teeth, where one tooth is longer and two are more shallow. The longer teeth perforate the crust and the shorter ones help slice through the crumb. It razors right through a loaf of bread, it’s a little crazy. Because of the extreme contrast in textures, it’s very hard to slice a loaf of bread that I like really thin, because it’s got big holes in it and a tender crust. But with his knife you can do it.

Consider the bread’s thickness. If it’s a closed-face sandwich, I tend to think the bread either needs to be hot pressed to integrate the whole thing, or very fresh with a thin, crisp crust—nothing too hard to bite through. If it’s open-faced, like the traditional Danish smorrebrod, I like very thinly sliced dense sprouted-grain bread with a finer crust.Choose the proper flavor bread. The bread should also contribute to the flavor of the sandwich, as opposed to just providing this delivery mechanism.Layer flavors and textures. At Bar Tartine we’re starting to serve smorrebrod, which literally means bread and butter. But we definitely want a lot of vegetables, maybe some meat, and a cultured dressing like either butter or mayo. I’m a big fan of mayo, I think it’s one of the great sauces of the world, but we make our own and flavor it with fermented ramps, different things to give it some nice tangier flavors. And then different textures because the bread is softer, so something crispy, something pickled with some acid, or a crispy vegetable. Then you get all these different tastes and sensations in one bite.Related Articles

View the original article here

Wednesday, July 18, 2012

Insider Austin Travel Guide: <em>Top Chef</em>’s Paul Qui Loves BBQ, Oysters and Vietnamese Sandwiches

Chef Paul Qui rocketed to food TV fame when he won Top Chef Season 9, garnering even more attention for one of America’s best new food cities, Austin, Texas. Qui is executive chef at the Japanese-accented Uchiko, but like most Austinites, he’s crazy for traditional Texas barbecue. Here, Qui shares more insider’s picks like Austin’s best bánh mì sandwich and where to find great oysters. In this Austin travel guide, Top Chef winner and resident Paul Qui shares his favorite restaurants and bars.

“This is an out-of-the-way oyster bar and seafood joint owned by a Thai family, who harvest their own oysters. It’s so cheap and they have this crazy-good Thai green sauce that’s delicious with the raw oysters.” deckhandoysterbar.com

“Bryce Gilmore won F&W Best New Chef last year and serves really nice, honest food. His specials change all the time, but anything he does with swine is worth getting"—like pork belly, with curried eggplant, couscous and pickled peach. barleyswine.com

“I like eating at this place, which is like a mom and pop operation. They make the best bánh mì in Austin with great bread. It’s simple, hearty and comforting Vietnamese food.” 10901 N. Lamar Blvd.; 512-973-9479

“I love Aaron Franklin’s brisket at Franklin BBQ. Snow’s BBQ, which is an hour outside Austin, is also incredible, but Snow’s is only open on Saturdays at 8 a.m. and they run out of barbecue by noon. Same deal with Franklin’s.” franklinbarbecue.com; snowsbbq.com

“I always reside on the East Side of Austin so I like hanging out at bars like The Liberty, Shangri-La or The Grackle since my food trailers [each called East Side King] are there too. When I go to bars, it’s usually a shot of Jameson followed by a Lone Star Beer.” eskaustin.com

Related Articles

View the original article here

Monday, May 21, 2012

Insider Los Angeles Travel Guide: Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken Crave Pupusas, Italian Sandwiches

L.A.-based street food experts Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken sell delicious tacos and “churro tots” from a trailer inspired by their flagship Border Grill. Here, the co-chefs share where they eat, shop for artsy gifts and tell friends to stay.


SF: There’s a truck at Olympic Boulevard and La Brea Avenue that’s been around for a while, and I’ve seen how they’ve given themselves an edge. All the guys working there are wearing the same uniform, they have lights outside hanging from the truck and it’s totally become a scene. Literally around midnight, there are often 30 to 40 people. I’ve had numerous things: tongue tacos, barbecue pork.

Los Angeles Travel Guide: Grand Central Market

SF: Mary Sue and I have gone to Central Market forever. We love Sarita’s for El Salvadorian pupusas. You can see them making them right there. They make one with cheese and loroco, a flower with great lemony flavor, and another with chicharrón and beans.

MM: The great thing about Central Market is that it’s totally accessible, with different kinds of food so it's good for groups. There’s also a gordita place we love that sells deep-fried cornmeal pockets.

Los Angeles Travel Guide: Mexicali

MM: The business started as a street food stand and the owners went on to open their own restaurant. They have interesting tacos and really made a name for themselves with roasted garlic salsa and other sauces.

SF: This is a great small Italian deli-market. You can get a Godmother, which is one of the great sandwiches in town, with all kinds of cold cuts like Genoa salami, mortadella, capicola, and prosciutto topped with pepperoncini. They bake their own bread.

Los Angeles Travel Guide: Mar Vista Farmers’ Market Courtesy of Mar Vista Farmer’s Market

MM: I go to Mar Vista Farmers’ Market on Sunday mornings, and it’s a great place for people to introduce their products. There’s the Korean Vegan stand, a fresh-corn roaster called Foodies and Baba Foods, which has baba ghanouj, Bulgarian feta and all different kinds of hummus like one flavored with fresh basil pesto.

MM: This is an adorable green hotel in Santa Monica that has complimentary taxi service.

Los Angeles Travel Guide: Luxe Hotel Courtesy of Luxe Sunset Boulevard Hotel, Bel Air

SF: It’s comfortable, not too big and sort of tucked away, but convenient to get to downtown because you’re near the 405 freeway.

MM: On Third Street near La Cienega Boulevard, there are a lot of shops including a really lovely men’s store called Douglas Fir where I always find gorgeous shirts, jackets and sweaters for my husband and sons. I am a big fan of lightweight, low-impact and functional household goods and Plastica is the best place for these kinds of things. I’ve found floor mats for the kitchen, wallets, placemats, purses, and more. Noodle Stories is a women’s clothing shop and I love everything from their socks to shoes to scarves to designer dresses.

Los Angeles Travel Guide: Venokado Venokado. Photo © Leena Creel / Creel Films.

SF: They have incredible boutique wine like Black Sheep Finds Hocus Pocus Syrah made in Santa Barbara by Peter Hunken and Amy Christine. Plus, great cards and fantastic gifts like little Obama T-shirts for babies—obviously they’re very liberal, so that have that slant.

SF: One of the great things to do on a Saturday or Sunday is go down to the Venice Farmers’ Market, then to the beach and rent bikes to ride all along the path to the Venice Canals. I think it’s one of those very perfect L.A. experiences.

MM: Downtown has become so much fun that I would not recommend coming to L.A. without spending a day walking around Little Tokyo and all the hip art district shops and galleries. You can stop at Grand Central Market and go to MOCA, or the Temporary Contemporary, which turned out to be permanent. They call it the Geffen Contemporary now.

Los Angeles Travel Guide: Border Grill Truck Courtesy of Border Grill Truck

MM: I can’t resist the Yucatan pork taco. It’s slow-roasted pork scented with banana leaves and cinnamon, with a jicama-and-orange salsa and pickled onions.

SF: The churro tots are dulce de leche churros tossed with cinnamon and sugar and served like Tater Tots with whipped cream.

SF: Crispy potato rajas tacos. They’re just one of those great satisfying tacos, with a chipotle crèma, a corn salsa and a little bit of mashed avocado.

MM: Ceviches. We have an Aji Amarillo ceviche with Peruvian yellow chiles and a sustainable fish that always changes, served with plantain chips and slices of avocado.

SF: Kaya toast. It’s a Singaporean street food and hangover cure that combines savory coconut custard, a soft-cooked fried egg and Korean soy sauce.

MM: I love the lamb meatballs made with lots of caramelized onions, cayenne and paprika, with date molasses and a mix of Syrian and feta cheeses.

Insider Los Angeles Travel Guide

Los Angeles-based chefs Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken. Courtesy of Langdon Flynn Communications


View the original article here

Friday, January 6, 2012

Andrew Zimmern’s Favorite Sandwiches

You can put a lot of stuff between two slices of bread and call it a sandwich, but here are seven I’d walk across burning coals to eat. Seriously.

2726 W. 43rd St., Minneapolis, MN; 612-354-2806 or tiliampls.com.

Fried fish, creamy peppadew slaw, corn chips, cilantro and lime never tasted so good. It’s the best fish sandwich in the world, besides Richard’s in Maracas Bay, Trinidad.

205 E. Houston St., New York, NY; 212-254-2246 or katzsdelicatessen.com.

Nitpickers will debate this until the End of Days, but for me, the one consistently good, amazingly fatty, hand-cut warm pastrami sandwich worth waiting on line for is Katz’s. Plain, on rye, with mustard. Go for it.

14 E. Snyder Ave., South Philadelphia, PA; 215-463-1951 or johnsroastpork.com.

Order it with aged provolone and get ready: slow-roasted pork butt, sliced paper-thin, in "gravy" with spicy greens on a real torpedo roll. Simple and perfect. Maybe the best sandwich in America.

1447 Five Islands Rd., Georgetown, ME; 207-371-2990 or fiveislandslobster.com.

If you like your lobster roll on a toasted bun with just a gloss, a whisper, a gentle zephyr of mayo, then this is the one for you. Served on the end of the dock on the ocean with only a few gulls to keep you company.

3454 Magazine St., New Orleans, LA; 504-899-3374 or mahonyspoboys.com.

I love Mother’s, and I love Parkway, but if you hold a gun to my head, the po’boys at Mahony’s are better than the rest. Get the oyster and soft-shell crab combo and call me when you’re done. You’ll agree.

1017 S. Ninth St., Philadelphia, PA; 215-440-0371 or paesanosphillystyle.com.

Yes indeed, a Jew from NYC thinks the best chicken liver sandwich comes from an Italian joint in South Philly. Crispy livers, toasted bun, secret sauce... Djeetyet?

449 N. Clark St., Chicago, IL; 312-334-3688 or rickbayless.com.

Carnitas, tomato broth, beans, arbol chile salsa and pickled red onions, wood roasted. How he does it with those huge lines is beyond me, but chef Rick Bayless is a genius. Spicy Latin perfection.


Andrew Zimmern’s Kitchen Adventures
Photo courtesy of the Travel Channel
Andrew Zimmern’s Favorite Sandwiches

Andrew Zimmern’s favorite sandwiches include the Ahogada Torta at Chicago’s XOCO. Photo © Maren Caruso.


View the original article here