Editor's Letter March 2013

As we celebrate the magazine’s 35th anniversary with this issue, I realize that I’ve been the editor for more than half its entire life! I’ve had some truly extraordinary experiences and look forward to many more. Here are a few of my favorites. Julia Child (left) with F&W editor-in-chief Dana Cowin at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen in 1995. “Julia had to be guided from the stage by burly guys who held back her fans.”

Having dinner at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Vong in New York City with F&W’s Executive Managing Editor, Mary Ellen Ward. It’s where I discovered that in this job, you can order a bottle of wine, a first course, a main course, a dessert, even tea! When I was growing up, I was discouraged from getting more than a main course and water.

Going to Julia Child’s house in Cambridge, Massachusetts, with F&W’s Executive Food Editor Tina Ujlaki, seeing Julia’s famous kitchen, then going out to lunch with her. The drive to the restaurant was unnerving—passing motorists, distracted by the sight of Julia at the wheel, risked an accident for a better look. Over dessert, Julia explained that whenever a chef visited her table after a bad meal and asked how she liked it, she would smile and say, “We had a lovely time,” with no comment on the food.

Visiting Jacques Pépin in coastal Connecticut. He and his best friend, Jean-Claude Szurdak, picked me up at the train station and drove directly to the beach. They parked, got out of the car and dropped their pants. I turned away, but when I turned back, they were in their bathing suits, ready with nets to catch tiny fish to cook for a delicious lunch.

A party at the lodge on Ajax Mountain during the Food & Wine Magazine Classic in Aspen. The F&W team surprised me with a five-foot-high cake to celebrate my 10 years as editor in chief. After restaurateurs Danny Meyer and Drew Nieporent pulled the cake into the room on a dolly, chefs Eric Ripert and Daniel Boulud popped out of the top.

Exploring Singapore while I was in town to judge the finale of Top Chef Season 7. I took the best tour of hawker stands with omnivores Dave Chang and Gail Simmons, led by K.F. Seetoh, the world’s expert on the local cuisine. He entertained us with tales of laksa (noodle soup) wars and more.

A winter dinner at Copenhagen’s Noma—one of my most memorable meals ever—with F&W’s Restaurant Editor Kate Krader and some friends. Afterward, we couldn’t catch a cab. The night was beautifully cold and snowy; the hotel was miles away. We were reluctant but ready to walk. Luckily, a pedicab lurched by and gave us a midnight tour of the city on the way “home.”

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Editor’s Letter

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At F&W, we’re endlessly fascinated by all things Italian—the food, the wine, the chefs. And one Italian chef we’re always fascinated by is Mario Batali. So for our Italian wine issue this month, we invited him to be our first-ever guest editor. Mario contributed his gargantuan talent throughout the issue: He interviewed writer Jim Harrison for “Hungry Crowd,” divulged his favorite restaurants in Italy for “Where to Go Next” and gave his buddy Jimmy Fallon a private cooking class. He even showed me how to make our cover dish, pasta with blistered tomatoes, so I could share his best tips with you.

What I Learned from Mario

1. Buy cherry tomatoes on the vine, place them in a 425-degree oven and blast them for 25 minutes. “You grab the stem end, and pfut!, the skins come right off,” says Mario, though we leave them on for this pasta recipe. This method redeems any out-of-season tomatoes.

2. Mario sometimes uses a single ingredient both during the cooking process and at the very end. For example, in our pasta recipe, he tosses in a little chopped parsley with the vegetables as they cook because, he says, “I like the cooked, muted flavor of parsley.” Then, “I add more at the end, for brightness.”

3. It’s always better to have the sauce too tight (or reduced) than too wet. When Mario’s sauce is ready to take off the heat, it looks like a limp and lovely vegetable stir-fry.

4. The make-or-break moment is when you’re coating the pasta with sauce. You want to do it the way you’d coat lettuce with salad dressing: Lightly! For maximum control, add the pasta in batches to the pan containing the sauce, instead of vice versa.

5. For a wine pairing, Mario rejects all reds—too tricky with the blanched asparagus in the sauce. “I’d open a bottle of white that has some acidity to drink with this vegetable pasta, like a Friulano from northern Italy,” he says.

Mario on His Favorite Color

One last question I had to ask Mario: Do you think you’ll ever get tired of the color orange? Mario answered swiftly, “Do you ever get tired of being happy? Orange makes me happy.”

Mario’s Cover Recipe Cook-Off

For the cover, we considered two recipes Mario developed exclusively for us: a spring pasta and a piadina—thin flatbread—with cured meat and cheese. I chose the pasta because of its immediacy, but we loved the piadina, too. So we’re sharing both recipes. If you had my job, which would you have chosen? Tweet me @fwscout.

Cover Recipe: Spring Pasta with Blistered Cherry Tomatoes

Star chef Mario Batali’s outstanding vegetable pasta boasts juicy roasted tomatoes with asparagus, Broccolini and shavings of ricotta salata cheese.

Coppa-and-Gorgonzola Piadine

Star chef Mario Batali’s terrific flatbread sandwiches are topped with slices of creamy Gorgonzola dolce and coppa as soon as they’re taken off the griddle.

Photo courtesy of Harper CollinsA Cookbook from Mario’s Best Students

Batali’s sons, Leo, 14, and Benno, 16, created this adorable, kid-friendly cookbook that includes 34 recipes; Mario’s favorite is the Blue Cheese Pocket Burger.

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Editor’s Letter February 2013

F&W editor-in-chief Dana Cowin.

We are living in a 24-hour world—working, texting and Instagramming day and night. The happy corollary is that we’re eating great food around the clock, too. We highlight 50 absolutely delicious dishes in this February issue.

Our story “Capital Improvement” collects recipes from Washington, DC’s incredible new breakfast, lunch, dinner, after-hours and snack spots. If you had told me when I was a Senate intern during college that Washington would one day be a center of restaurant cool, I’d have choked on my greasy cafeteria grilled cheese sandwich. But chefs like ramen expert Erik Bruner-Yang, who will be launching the ambitious Maketto this spring, are making the DC food scene a whole lot more exciting than Beltway politics.

Over the last few years, we’ve been covering professional bakers and chefs all around the country who are reinventing breakfast. Now, it’s time for home cooks to catch up. Our story “Bread and Breakfast” takes a look at the new world of choices, from Nordic rye loaves to Persian flatbreads, and shares recipes for fabulous bready breakfasts. My favorites are the outrageous maple-bacon bread pudding and the brioche French toast with cranberry cream. And if you ever wanted to make your own bagels, you’ll find out how here.

As a recent convert to coffee—the perfect fuel for 24 hours of eating adventures—I learned a lot from champion barista Michael Phillips of Los Angeles’s Handsome Coffee Roasters. In “A Coffee-Geek Primer,” he explains the differences among various home-brewing methods and tells how to make a cup that’s right for you. Turns out I’m a paper-filter/Clever Dripper/dark-roast person. One cup and I’m ready to hit the restaurant circuit—anytime!

I’d love to have this place in my neighborhood for a crispy chicken-skin snack and maitake mushrooms with egg vinaigrette. 2853 N. Kedzie Ave.; yusho-chicago.com.

Takashi Yagihashi’s casual ramen spot makes noodles the slow way, by hand. 116 W. Hubbard St.; slurpingturtle.com.

Dramatic plating and creative food from Thai Dang, like scallops sizzled on a shell. 564 W. Randolph St.; embeya.com.

View the original article here

Editor’s Letter February 2013

F&W editor-in-chief Dana Cowin.

We are living in a 24-hour world—working, texting and Instagramming day and night. The happy corollary is that we’re eating great food around the clock, too. We highlight 50 absolutely delicious dishes in this February issue.

Our story “Capital Improvement” collects recipes from Washington, DC’s incredible new breakfast, lunch, dinner, after-hours and snack spots. If you had told me when I was a Senate intern during college that Washington would one day be a center of restaurant cool, I’d have choked on my greasy cafeteria grilled cheese sandwich. But chefs like ramen expert Erik Bruner-Yang, who will be launching the ambitious Maketto this spring, are making the DC food scene a whole lot more exciting than Beltway politics.

Over the last few years, we’ve been covering professional bakers and chefs all around the country who are reinventing breakfast. Now, it’s time for home cooks to catch up. Our story “Bread and Breakfast” takes a look at the new world of choices, from Nordic rye loaves to Persian flatbreads, and shares recipes for fabulous bready breakfasts. My favorites are the outrageous maple-bacon bread pudding and the brioche French toast with cranberry cream. And if you ever wanted to make your own bagels, you’ll find out how here.

As a recent convert to coffee—the perfect fuel for 24 hours of eating adventures—I learned a lot from champion barista Michael Phillips of Los Angeles’s Handsome Coffee Roasters. In “A Coffee-Geek Primer,” he explains the differences among various home-brewing methods and tells how to make a cup that’s right for you. Turns out I’m a paper-filter/Clever Dripper/dark-roast person. One cup and I’m ready to hit the restaurant circuit—anytime!

I’d love to have this place in my neighborhood for a crispy chicken-skin snack and maitake mushrooms with egg vinaigrette. 2853 N. Kedzie Ave.; yusho-chicago.com.

Takashi Yagihashi’s casual ramen spot makes noodles the slow way, by hand. 116 W. Hubbard St.; slurpingturtle.com.

Dramatic plating and creative food from Thai Dang, like scallops sizzled on a shell. 564 W. Randolph St.; embeya.com.

View the original article here

Editor’s Letter

F&W editor-in-chief Dana Cowin.

January is a time when many of us come up with resolutions for the year ahead—we promise to eat less, exercise more, create time for hobbies. After decades of making those lists, I have to admit I rarely stick to the plan for more than a couple of months. This year at F&W, we’ve developed a few ideas that are so good, they will make keeping resolutions easy. At least I hope so!

I’m going to start by overhauling my recipe repertoire at home. That should be simple if I follow our Pantry recommendations in the Handbook. The column will showcase one new ingredient each month, which will make my cooking healthier and more diverse; we’re kicking off with almond milk, which is astonishingly excellent in dishes like rice pudding, creamed spinach and a warm almond-chocolate sauce. Equally important is sketching out a strategy for wine drinking in 2013—I’m following Executive Wine Editor Ray Isle’s advice. He suggests first drinking all the bottles in your wine fridge—this will be a fantastic excuse to throw a party. Then I’ll start fresh, with empty shelves, and restock more methodically, buying some Chianti to go with the Italian dishes I like to make and Riesling for my Chinese takeout.

On my New Year’s list, there are always a few restaurants I must try in the coming months. There are so many big openings scheduled for 2013 that we’ve already seen significant trends emerge, like chicken replacing burgers as a chef obsession. Restaurant Editor Kate Krader’s picks led to amazing recipes like the lemony roast chicken on the cover, from Atlanta chef Shaun Doty. As for the first stop on my eating tour, I’m ready to head to Puerto Rico for star chef José Andrés’s first opening outside the continental US, at the Ritz-Carlton Reserve at Dorado Beach. I hope this issue inspires you to make a list of your own food and wine resolutions for the New Year—and that you can stick to the plan!

Sophisticated, delicious and thoughtful, I loved Marcus Jernmark’s reimagined Swedish dishes, including a Scandinavian bouillabaisse. 65 E. 55th St.; aquavit.org.

Perfectionist baker Jim Lahey’s new outpost has genius panini, like one with soft-cooked eggs and crisp pancetta. sullivanstreetbakery.com.

An old-school favorite with chefs like Danny Bowien of Mission Chinese Food, the mutton chop here is extraordinary. keens.com.

Twitter: Follow me @fwscout

Facebook: Become a fan at facebook.com/foodandwine

View the original article here

Editor’s Letter

F&W editor-in-chief Dana Cowin.

January is a time when many of us come up with resolutions for the year ahead—we promise to eat less, exercise more, create time for hobbies. After decades of making those lists, I have to admit I rarely stick to the plan for more than a couple of months. This year at F&W, we’ve developed a few ideas that are so good, they will make keeping resolutions easy. At least I hope so!

I’m going to start by overhauling my recipe repertoire at home. That should be simple if I follow our Pantry recommendations in the Handbook. The column will showcase one new ingredient each month, which will make my cooking healthier and more diverse; we’re kicking off with almond milk, which is astonishingly excellent in dishes like rice pudding, creamed spinach and a warm almond-chocolate sauce. Equally important is sketching out a strategy for wine drinking in 2013—I’m following Executive Wine Editor Ray Isle’s advice. He suggests first drinking all the bottles in your wine fridge—this will be a fantastic excuse to throw a party. Then I’ll start fresh, with empty shelves, and restock more methodically, buying some Chianti to go with the Italian dishes I like to make and Riesling for my Chinese takeout.

On my New Year’s list, there are always a few restaurants I must try in the coming months. There are so many big openings scheduled for 2013 that we’ve already seen significant trends emerge, like chicken replacing burgers as a chef obsession. Restaurant Editor Kate Krader’s picks led to amazing recipes like the lemony roast chicken on the cover, from Atlanta chef Shaun Doty. As for the first stop on my eating tour, I’m ready to head to Puerto Rico for star chef José Andrés’s first opening outside the continental US, at the Ritz-Carlton Reserve at Dorado Beach. I hope this issue inspires you to make a list of your own food and wine resolutions for the New Year—and that you can stick to the plan!

Sophisticated, delicious and thoughtful, I loved Marcus Jernmark’s reimagined Swedish dishes, including a Scandinavian bouillabaisse. 65 E. 55th St.; aquavit.org.

Perfectionist baker Jim Lahey’s new outpost has genius panini, like one with soft-cooked eggs and crisp pancetta. sullivanstreetbakery.com.

An old-school favorite with chefs like Danny Bowien of Mission Chinese Food, the mutton chop here is extraordinary. keens.com.

Twitter: Follow me @fwscout

Facebook: Become a fan at facebook.com/foodandwine

View the original article here

Editor’s Letter

F&W editor-in-chief Dana Cowin.

So many of summer’s best activities are timeless. Swimming, hiking, visiting pick-your-own fruit farms, cooking over a campfire under the stars—these experiences remain much the same today as they were when I went to summer camp decades ago. But one thing has certainly changed a lot: the food. At my all-girls camp in Maine, the highlight of each day was sheet cake served at 11 a.m. on the shaded porch. But cutting through the haze of nostalgia, I know that if I had a slice of that cake today it wouldn’t taste nearly as good: It was just too cloyingly sweet. In this issue, we highlight the fun of the season—but update the recipes.

Trail rides, for example, are a perfect August adventure. Kelly Liken, the star chef at Restaurant Kelly Liken in Vail, Colorado, prepares meals outside over an open fire for a dozen lucky men and women on a gorgeous four-day horseback ride through the Rockies. Her grilled lamb with gremolata pesto and flatbread pizza capture the essence of outdoor cooking: smoke, heat, cast iron. In Gloucester, Massachusetts, the chefs at The Market Restaurant on Lobster Cove make the entire restaurant feel like summer camp. Many staff members live together in cabins by the water, swim to or from work and have parties with lobster-corn fritters and smoked-fish chowder. All the ingredients are superfresh, as if Alice Waters herself (godmother to one of the chefs) were on KP duty.

In this issue, we also visit actor Bill Pullman’s extraordinary orchard in Los Angeles, under the Hollywood sign, where he grows 40 different kinds of exotic fruit. He invites two of his favorite chefs to preside over a canning party using height-of-season nectarines, figs and more. That’s a delicious update on the U-pick farms I remember from growing up, and a ritual I’d be thrilled to pass on to the next generation of summer campers.

Astoundingly good Thai food, like the herb salad with lime leaf, lemongrass and sawtooth in mild coconut-milk dressing. 127 Columbia St., Brooklyn; pokpokny.com.

Great Asian-American mash-ups from Top Chef contestant Dale Talde, including Korean chicken-and-waffles with coconut-brown butter syrup. 369 Seventh Ave., Brooklyn; taldebrooklyn.com.

Danny Bowien’s new outpost of his San Francisco original is fiery and fabulous, with incredible ma po tofu and kung pao pastrami. 154 Orchard St., Manhattan; missionchinesefood.com.

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Facebook: Become a fan at facebook.com/foodandwine

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Editor's Letter

F&W editor-in-chief Dana Cowin and publisher Christina Grdovic Baltz with this year’s Best New Chefs.

When Michael and Ariane Batterberry founded this magazine in 1978, one of their aspirations was to highlight the talents of American chefs who were breaking away from the tyranny of classical European style. We now see how prescient the Batterberrys were, as today’s most accomplished chefs create a new vision for American food. The results are more dramatically diverse than I imagine even F&W’s founders could have predicted.

Consider this year’s F&W Best New Chefs, in the photo at right with me and F&W’s publisher, Chris Grdovic (wearing green). Corey Lee at the very elegant Benu in San Francisco, for example, makes brilliant modern California dishes with both Asian and French techniques. In Portland, Oregon, Jenn Louis runs Lincoln and Sunshine Tavern, serving delicious and completely accessible American favorites like fried chicken with yeasted semolina waffles.

Exceptional American chefs are our inspiration in the realm of home cooking, too. The first time I heard about xanthan gum, for instance, Wylie Dufresne of Manhattan’s WD-50 (an F&W Best New Chef 2001) was experimenting with it in his molecular masterpieces. Now xanthan is available in grocery stores; with a recipe from The Gastronaut Files, I plan to use it in a silky-smooth cocktail.

Star chefs and home cooks come together at the F&W Magazine Classic in Aspen, celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. For the best recipes and wine wisdom from the last three decades, check out Insiders’ Aspen. From dishes by chef legends like Emeril Lagasse to smart tips from restaurateur Danny Meyer on how to pair wine with a hot dog, the event celebrates the American food scene today in a way that does the Batterberrys’ vision proud.

One of my best dinners ever. David Kinch’s creativity, fueled by amazing ingredients from Love Apple Farms, results in singular dishes like abalone panna cotta. 320 Village Ln.; manresarestaurant.com.

I loved the vibe and the fresh, modern food, like the luscious uni pasta. 255 Smith St.; battersbybrooklyn.com.

F&W Best New Chef 2005 Daniel Humm reinvents dishes like fruits de mer, creates new classics and borrows favorites from his Eleven Madison Park. 1170 Broadway; thenomadhotel.com.

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Editor’s Letter

F&W editor-in-chief Dana Cowin. © Chris Salata / Palm Beach Daily News

Could grilling be the answer to everything? After putting together this issue, I’m convinced that if it can’t solve every problem, it sure can come close. Why do I say this? In Detroit, a city devastated by urban blight, a terrific little barbecue joint called Slows is using the power of great burgers, chicken and ribs to revitalize its Corktown neighborhood. In “Soul Food for a Hungry City,” we catch up with the visionary behind Slows, meet the urban pioneers joining him in his mission and share their best recipes.

Grilling also solves the entertaining dilemma we all face: How can you cook a meal and hang out with guests when they arrive? Our story “Make-Ahead Grilling” saves the day, with recipes like Provençal leg of lamb from F&W’s Grace Parisi.

If you don’t want to do any grilling at all, the new online company Kitchit has a solution: Hire a chef to do it for you. That’s how chef Jeff Banker of San Francisco’s Baker & Banker found himself preparing a fabulous outdoor feast for our story “The Chef Who Came to Grill Dinner.” The guests at the Kitchit party loved his cedar-planked salmon with lemon and dill and his grilled broccoli with smoky lime butter and queso fresco.

Maybe grilling could even be one way to help achieve world peace. Inspired by the Olympics, we brought together chefs representing five different countries for our story “Global Grilling Games.” We’d love you to judge this competition: Make the recipes and tell us your favorites on Twitter @fandw or Facebook at facebook.com.

Photo courtesy of North End Grill.

Chef Floyd Cardoz’s grilled clam pizza is a magnificent, thin-crust pie that is both opulent and restrained. 104 North End Ave.; northendgrillnyc.com; 646-747-1600.

The F&W staff’s favorite new pizza place near our office makes a deep-fried pie with greens and fresh ricotta. 309 W. 50th St.; donantoniopizza.com; 646-719-1043.

The perfectly gooey trugole cheese is killer in the braised fennel pizza at chef Michael Schwartz’s new place. 3918 N. Miami Ave.; harryspizzeria.com; 786-275-4963.

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Editor's letter

In the last two years, I have people who a whole trip only to a single meal plan into the ranks of the pilgrims of the world food. It began to eat with flying to Copenhagen to the neo naturalist Noma. This experience was so satisfied, both intellectually and Gustatorially, which I soon a trip continues to Grant Achatz in Chicago to a. This desire, the world's best food to visit destinations has taken over even a crazy dynamic for TV personalities, famous chefs and bloggers. We will document some great finds and recipes in this issue.

For our annual list dozens of pilgrimage-worthy spots around the globego our fabulous travel Editor, Gina Hamadey, identified. I'm the modernised English country inns outside London to my pilgrimage add to wish list. "The Council of one of my trip gurus follow writer Anya from brakes, I plan the head to Turkey to try the courts what writes you onIstanbul new Meze master." I tasted the amazing marinated baby artichokes with ginger in the F & W test kitchen, but I know that food on the Bosporus would be even better.

The recipes, the we by a diverse group of hard-traveling TV chefscollected - of the teacherly Lidia Bastianich, F & W editor Andrew Zimmern - more than appetite inspire. You make me head in my kitchen I the world in a week want, thus, starting with Luke Nguyen grilled pork Banh mi can travel. I hope some of the places in this issue-land on their own list of pilgrimage. Tweet me @ Fwscout , let me know!

At the old school of little Italy joints, Mario Carbone and rich Torrisi parm serves the best Meatball parm: juicy, meaty, sassy and trashy. 248 Mulberry St; parmnyc.com; 212-993-7189.

Gutsy, lusty food and intelligent ideas, such as the ginormous skewer short ribs with Horseradish and celery shaved. 53 Great Jones St; ilbucovineria.com; 212-837-2622.

Jim Burke (a F & W best new chef 2008) makes sensual dishes within the New York historical society as a perfectly cooked, clear skin fried sea bass. 170 Central Park West. nyhistory.org/dine; 212-485-9211.

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R & W editor in Chief Dana Cowin. Photo © Vaughan Blom on creations.

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Editor’s Letter

For a very long while, I have cheerily made my favorite foods in a broad range of cuisines—French, Italian, Chinese, American—taking advantage of a world of incredible, newly available ingredients. I’m proud of my shopping forays through New York City, buying different kinds of greens in Chinatown or new varieties of pasta at Eataly. But when I started using a couple of healthy new cookbooks that include ingredients I’ve never tried before, like flaxseed and wild boar, I realized that I’ve been missing out. In this issue, we bring these ingredients to you in super-tantalizing dishes.

In “The 21st-Century Healthy Pantry,” we focus on three big categories: vegan, meat and grains. I’m particularly interested in the meat section, because Contributing Editor Andrew Zimmern has drilled into my head the need to go beyond the usual beef, chicken and pork. “If you eat one alternate protein a week,” he says, “it will have a staggering, immediate and lasting effect on repairing the massive damage our food system has endured over the last 25 years.” I’m especially excited to make the northern Thailand–inspired stir-fried goat with basil from chef Johnny Monis. That way, the earth and I can both get healthier at the same time.

As a DIY project, I’d also like to try my hand at sprouting beans, to see if they energize me as much as holistic chef Adina Niemerow promises in our story “Germination Nation.” Then I’ll graduate to yogurt, which dairy entrepreneur Ron Marks shows us how to make in The Gastronaut Files. I admit that I’m intimidated by the phrases “live, active bacteria” and “starter culture”—they don’t exactly sound delicious—but I can get over that. Certainly our photo of thick, creamy yogurt topped with a luscious mixed-berry conserve is an enticement.

I hope this issue inspires you to change your cooking routine, try something new and embrace the modern definition of a healthy pantry.

Roving waiters at Claude Troisgros’s chic spot pass the most delicious vegetable side dishes to accompany hunks of divine Argentinean beef. Rua Dias Ferreira, 636; 011-55-21-2529-2329.

Sublime and authentic Brazilian dishes, like hefty pork ribs with sticky guava paste, plus an outstanding selection of global beer options. Rua Barão de Iguatemi, 388; 011-55-21-2273-1035.

A drive from downtown Rio in Guaratiba, Bira has fantastic ocean views and magnificent fish, like sea bass cooked in a black pot with olive oil and onions. Estrada da Vendinha, 68A; 011-55-21-2410-8304.

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F&W editor-in-chief Dana Cowin. Photo © Sylvain Gaboury.

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Editor’s Letter

There’s a culinary legend in the making every day—at least that’s the way it seems on TV, in the blogosphere and in restaurants. Some chefs are as well-known as the most glittery stars of music, fashion and film. In this issue we look at the biggest talents at every age, from Elissa Bernstein (the spectacular 19-year-old baking blogger) to Cecilia Chiang (the 91-year-old restaurateur who changed our view of Chinese food in America in the ’60s). What becomes clear when I think about icons like Wolfgang Puck (the brilliant 62-year-old chef, with me in the photo at right) is that they are all people whose outsized originality and talent have shifted our perspectives on food. These men and women are at once both singular and representative of larger truths—and their recipes are universally delicious. You must try Thomas McNaughton’s parsnip-filled triangoli with aged balsamic, or Madhur Jaffrey’s supersimple Swiss chard spiced with ginger and cumin.

World-renowned chefs René Redzepi of Copenhagen’s Noma and Daniel Patterson of San Francisco’s Coi allowed us to eavesdrop on their creative process, showing the importance of an open mind and an excellent palate. While brewing coffee at breakfast, they arrived at the idea of roasting squash in coffee beans. Then Dan took the dish to a whole new level, reinventing it as coffee-roasted carrots garnished with crème fraîche, which he put on his restaurant menu.

These individuals, who have created so much excitement around food, have brought us to an extraordinary culinary moment. Today, seemingly anyone with a passion for cooking, a talent for packaging and a hipster zip code is launching an artisanal food business. Young entrepreneurs like these are the ones we believe will lead us into the future. Check out “Trendspotting” to learn more about these legends in the making, and please be sure to let me know if the story inspires your own DIY dreams.

Alon Shaya creates dramatic and delicious dishes like a whole roasted cauliflower, pierced with a knife and ready to cut. 123 Baronne St.; 504-648-6020.

These guys are sandwich savants. I loved the torta with braised chicken thighs, tomatillos and pickled jalapeños. 1303 Westwood Blvd.; 310-444-7581.

The Mideast meets Cal in the pretty and tasty smoked sablefish and lebneh flatbread. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd.; 310-657-4103.

Twitter: Follow me @fwscout

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Editor in Chief Dana Cowin. Photo © Andrew French.

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