The Ultimate Wine Geek Road Trip: Austria

This was my fifth and final day. When I pulled up at Nikolaihof, in Austria’s Wachau region, I’d driven more than 1,700 miles and spent nearly 35 hours behind the wheel.

Nikolaihof is ancient. The oldest winery in Austria, it was a Celtic holy place, then a Roman fortress until 511 AD. Then the Romans left and, as Nikolaus Saahs, whose family now owns it, told me, “after that, the history is unknown until 777 AD, when a monastery was founded here.”

Hearing the story of Nikolaihof brought something home to me. Every single region I’d hit on my five-day journey shared one specific thing, which was that Romans had been the first to cultivate wine grapes there. (After 1,700 miles of driving, it also struck me as amazing that the Romans held together their empire with no mode of travel other than foot or horse.) All different countries, all different cultures, but a single unifying thread: wine. It was heartening, somehow.

Over a seemingly endless succession of Austrian dishes at the winery’s restaurant that night—Saahs’s mother, Christine, is a well-known Austrian chef—I tasted the Nikolaihof wines. If I had to pick a favorite, it would most likely be the family’s Vinothek Grýner Veltliner, which is only bottled after it has aged for a decade or more in huge wooden casks. I love the fresh white-peppery spice of Grýner, Austria’s signature grape, and it can last (and improve) for far longer than people realize. The 1993 Vinothek, the current vintage, had intense, lasting flavors, yet was amazingly alive, ending on an ethereal honeysuckle note.

Earlier that day, Saahs had taken me down to the oldest part of Nikolaihof’s cellars, built more than 1,800 years ago. The room had been a wine cellar back then, and it was a wine cellar now. While we were standing there, Saahs said, “I’m just a small part of the history of this house, and I know it. Two thousand years of history, and I’m living here 70 years? That’s nothing.” True, 70 years was nothing. But here we were, in this small stone room, talking about making wine. And 1,800 years ago, two other people had no doubt been standing right here, too, in exactly the same place, talking about making wine. In between, what had there been? Wars, famines, revolutions, discoveries, nations rising and falling, people living their lives, and through all of it, no matter what, in every single place I’d visited, someone making wine.

2010 Maximin Grýnhaus Abtsberg Riesling Kabinett ($37) Dr. Carl von Schubert makes several terrific wines from Abtsberg, his top vineyard. This slatey bottling is one of the easiest to find.

2010 Nikolaihof Grýner Veltliner Hefeabzug ($30) A peppery white, it’s a great introduction to Nikolaihof’s Grýners. Also look for the powerful, spicy 1993 Vinothek bottling ($170).

2008 Château de Beaucastel Châteuneuf-du-Pape ($98) Great producers make superb wine even in tough years. This violet-scented, complex red is a perfect example.

2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione ($48) The ’07 vintage in Barolo is spectacular, something this cuvée shows with its depth and elegance. It’s made with grapes from several grand cru Barolo vineyards.

2009 Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofí ($70) Palacios’s legendary L’Ermita runs $800 a bottle. Dofí costs a fraction of that, yet it’s still world class— powerful yet subtle, with intense fruit and a mineral edge.

With the exception of Alvaro Palacios in Spain, each winery on Ray’s tour is open to visitors by appointment (with a fair amount of advance notice).

France’s Château de Beaucastel. Photo © Martin Morrell.

Visits to and tastings at Beaucastel, in Courthézon, can be arranged through its website (beau castel.com). To book a table at L’Oustalet, the Perrin family’s restaurant in the town of Gigondas, go to restaurant oustalet.com.

To arrange guided visits to Vietti’s winery and cellars, in the small town of Castiglione Falletto, go to vietti.com.

Located near the town of Trier, along the Ruwer river, Grýnhaus offers tours and tastings Monday through Saturday (vonschubert.com).

At Nikolaihof, in Mautern, visitors can taste wine and try traditional Austrian cuisine at the winery’s tavern (nikolaihof.at).

On his wine road trip, Ray Isle picked up iconic bottles like an excellent Austrian Grüner Veltliner (center). Photo © Constantine Poulos.

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The ultimate wine geek road trip: Austria

This was my fifth and final day. When I moved region of Austria's Wachau in St. Nicholas Court I had driven more than 1,700 km and spent nearly 35 hours behind the wheel.

St. Nicholas is very old. The oldest Winery in Austria, it was a Celtic sacred site, then a Roman Fort to 511 AD. Then told that now owns it Romans links as well as, Nikolaus Saahs, whose family, me, "then, history is unknown until 777 ad, when a monastery was founded here."

Hear me the story of St. Nicholas Court brought some home. A particular thing, which was Romans that it maintain first grapes would together each region, the five-day I meet on my trip. (To take 1,700 miles was also me amazing, that the Romans kept together their empire with no mode of travel other than foot or on horseback.) Thread vereinheitlichende all the other countries, all cultures, but a single: Wine. It was gratifying, somehow.

A seemingly endless number of Austrian specialities in the restaurant the vineyard that night - Saahs of the mother, Christine, is a well known Austrian chef - I tasted wines St. Nicholas Court. If I had to choose a favorite, it would probably the family wine shop Grýner Veltliner, that is only in bottles after it has aged for a decade or longer in large wooden barrels. I love the fresh white peppery spice of Grýner, Austria's signature grape, and it may take (and improvement) far longer than to meet people. The Vinothek in 1993 the current year, intensive and long-lasting flavors, still had was amazing life, ending with an essential note of honeysuckle.

Earlier in the day taken Saahs me down to the oldest part of St. Nicholas Court basement, more than 1,800 years ago built. At that time the room had a wine cellar, and now it was a wine cellar. While we stood there, Saahs said: "I am only a small part of the history of this House, and I know it." Living two thousand years of history, and I'm here for 70 years? "This is nothing." True, nothing was 70 years. But here we were, in this small stone house talk about wine. And 1,800 years ago, two other people had been here in exactly the same place there is no doubt, talking about wine. Between, what was there? Wars, famines, revolutions, discoveries, Nations rise and fall, people their lives, and through all of it, no matter I attended what would, in any place, someone wine-making.

2010 Maximin Grýnhaus Abtsberg Riesling cabinet ($37) Dr. Carl von Schubert makes several excellent Abtsberg, his upper vineyard wines. This slatey filling is the easiest way to find one.

2010 St. Nicholas Court Grýner Veltliner yeast deduction ($30) A peppery white, it is a great introduction to the St. Nicholas Court of Grýners. Make sure wine shop on the powerful, spicy 1993 filling ($170).

2008 Château de Beaucastel Châteuneuf du-Pape ($98) Major manufacturers make excellent wines in hard years. This red purple scented complex is a perfect example.

2007 Vietti Barolo Castiglione ($48)The vintage ' 07 in Barolo is spectacular, something this cuvée shows with its depth and elegance. It is made vineyards with grapes from several grand-Cru Barolo.

2009 Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofí ($70) Palacios of legendary L'ermita runs $800 per bottle. DofÍ costs a fraction of this, but it's still world-class powerful, yet subtle, with intense fruit and a mineral edge.

With the exception of Alvaro Palacios in Spain each winery on Ray is tour open to visitors by arrangement (with a fair amount of in advance).

France's Château de Beaucastel. Photo © Martin Morrell.

Visits and tasting Beaucastel, Courthézon, can through his Web site (Beau castel.com) be organized. A table on l ' Oustalet book, restaurant in the city of Gigondas, go the Perrin family oustalet.com restaurant.

Call to the vietti.com to guided tours of Vietti of the winery and cellar, in the small town of Castiglione Falletto to arrange.

Close to the city of Trier, along the River Ruwer offers Grýnhaus sightseeing and wine tasting Monday to Saturday (vonschubert.com).

Nikolai courtyard, Mautern visitors can taste wine and taste traditional Austrian cuisine in the winery Tavern (nikolaihof.at).

On his journey Weinstraße Ray Isle picked iconic bottles as an excellent Austrian Grüner Veltliner (Center). Photo © Constantine Poulos.

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Grant Achatz goes to the Austria

As a small museum with the evolution of the galleries, the progressive and very modern restaurant Ikarus showcases the best talent in the world, a leader in both.

If you have problems if a table at Alinea in Chicago, you might consider to go instead to Austria. Throughout November, Grant Achatz ingenious food will be served in a particular restaurant called Ikarus, which opened in 2003 and is located inside the Hangar-7, glass-encased headquarters, in the form of wing of an armada of aircraft owned by the founder of Red Bull. Each month, a Cook different visits to the restaurant in Salzburg and designs a temporary menu - intended to develop his personal style on display - which is then carried out by the executive chef of Ikarus, Roland Trettl and his staff. This concept is renewable offers diners highlights a unique opportunity to discover the culinary sponsors of the world. (Last invited leaders include Kenneth Oringer of Clio, Boston;) Juan Amador the Germany; (and Thierry Marx of Château Cordeillan-Bages, in France.) And if you are curious to know the name of the restaurant, Ikarus indeed mentions the well-known character of Greek mythology, who attempted the incredible feat of the aircraft. "Our main goal was to get the wings," said Trettl. "But, of course, we try to avoid the end of this story."

View the original article here

Grant Achatz goes to the Austria

As a small museum with the evolution of the galleries, the progressive and very modern restaurant Ikarus showcases the best talent in the world, a leader in both.

If you have problems if a table at Alinea in Chicago, you might consider to go instead to Austria. Throughout November, Grant Achatz ingenious food will be served in a particular restaurant called Ikarus, which opened in 2003 and is located inside the Hangar-7, glass-encased headquarters, in the form of wing of an armada of aircraft owned by the founder of Red Bull. Each month, a Cook different visits to the restaurant in Salzburg and designs a temporary menu - intended to develop his personal style on display - which is then carried out by the executive chef of Ikarus, Roland Trettl and his staff. This concept is renewable offers diners highlights a unique opportunity to discover the culinary sponsors of the world. (Last invited leaders include Kenneth Oringer of Clio, Boston;) Juan Amador the Germany; (and Thierry Marx of Château Cordeillan-Bages, in France.) And if you are curious to know the name of the restaurant, Ikarus indeed mentions the well-known character of Greek mythology, who attempted the incredible feat of the aircraft. "Our main goal was to get the wings," said Trettl. "But, of course, we try to avoid the end of this story."

View the original article here

Grant Achatz Goes to Austria

Like a small museum with ever-changing galleries, the progressive and very modern restaurant Ikarus showcases the world’s best talent, one chef at a time.

If you are having trouble snagging a table at Alinea, in Chicago, you might consider going to Austria instead. Throughout November, Grant Achatz’s ingenious food will be served at a peculiar restaurant called Ikarus, which opened in 2003 and is located inside Hangar-7, the glass-encased, wing-shaped headquarters of an airplane armada owned by the founder of Red Bull. Each month, a different chef visits the Salzburg restaurant and designs a temporary menu—meant to put his or her personal style on display—that is then carried out by Ikarus’s executive chef, Roland Trettl, and his staff. This revolving-door concept offers diners a unique opportunity to experience highlights from the culinary masterminds of the world. (Past guest chefs include Kenneth Oringer of Clio, in Boston; Germany’s Juan Amador; and Thierry Marx of Château Cordeillan-Bages, in France.) And if you are curious about the name of the restaurant, Ikarus does indeed refer to the well-known character from Greek mythology who attempted the incredible feat of flying. “Our main aim was to get wings,” says Trettl. “But of course, we try to avoid the end of that story.”

View the original article here